1S49. 



THE GENESEE FARMER. 



75 



OSAGE ORANGE FOR HEDGES. 



It is pleasing to observe that with the general 

 advancement of horticulture, the unsightly rail fences 

 are rapidly disappearing, and making way for the 

 various kinds of hedge plants. As yet the majority 

 of farmers are not convinced of the economy of 

 ■•clearing away" their favorite "land-marks," not- 

 withstanding they require) every two or three years, 

 as much outlay, (taking time and cost of timber 

 into consideration.) as would the purchase of seeds 

 and planting a hedge — and nothing adds so much 

 to the beauty and value of a place as a well planted 

 and properly kept hedge. We consider the outlay 

 better than bank or railroad stock. 



The Osage Orange has within the past year been 

 the subject of much discussion in the horticultural 

 and agricultural publications, and we have of late 

 received several communications making inquiries as 

 to the best mode of sowing, planting, 8&c, and we 

 present such facts on the subject as our space permits. 



The vigorous growth, bushy habit, shining leaves 

 and strong sharp spine of this plant are well calcu- 

 lated to make it not only a very ornamental, but also 

 a very resistive body. Our experience does not war- 

 rant us as yet to recommend it for extensive planting 

 in the Northern States, although it is said there is a 

 hedge near Boston that has proved quite hardy. 



The appearance of the plant or tree, is not unlike 

 the true Orange. The above engraving, (from the 

 Horticulturist,) is a correct representation of a small 

 branch. It is not an evergreen, but during the 

 whole summer, and until late in autumn, the leaves 

 are of a brilliant and shining green. The wood is 

 very hard and strong, and the thorns so sharp and 

 numerous that no animal will attempt to get through 



The following directions for Sowing the Sj.i d, 

 cut from the Prairie Farmer, corresponds so well 

 with our experience, that we cannot do better than 

 to recommend them to the perusal of our readers — 

 if strictly followed, almost every seed will vegetate. 



" All that can be done now about the seeds is to 

 wait till spring unless they should be covered with 

 damp sand in a box and exposed to the weather; but 

 we doubt if any considerble advantage would be gained 

 by this, as the seed does not need to be frozen at all. 

 We made some experiments last spring in sowing 

 the seed of the Osage Orange, and also of the Buck- 

 thorn — for they are similar in their habits of germina- 

 tion, and require to be treated alike, and we are satis- 

 fied the best way to manage them is this: when the 

 ground becomes well warmed — say during the last 

 half of May in this latitude, and proportionally ear- 

 lier further South — pour npon the seeds warm water, 

 of the temperature of 140° farenheit, or as warm as 

 that the finger can be held in it, and let it stand in 

 this water about thirty-six hours. Then pour off the 

 Water, and let the seeds remain wet in a warm room, 

 for a week. If a little earth be mixed with them they 

 will be kept damp somewhat easier, for they must in 

 no case be allowed to dry. Then sow in a seed bed, 

 covering them about an inch in depth ; care must be 

 taken that the seed bed does not dry, or the seeds will 

 be killed. If the seed is old it will not all vegetate, 

 the mode above sketched will bring up all that will 

 come — the first season at all events. We used boil- 

 ing water on one lot of seed, but it failed to come as 

 well as that treated as above. This mode of managing 

 all seeds with thick shells, may be followed. Many 

 plants may be killed the first winter, in this latitude, 

 but we are assured they will start again." 



The following directions for Planting and Train- 

 ing we copy from the Ohio Cultivator: 



"The ground where the hedge is to be planted, 

 should be plowed in the fall, if hard or in grass, so 

 as to be mellowed by the frosts of winter. Set 

 the plants in a single straight line, eight or nine 

 inches apart ; or if a very close hedge is desired, set 

 them in a double line, one foot apart in each — six 

 inches between the two rows, and the plants in one 

 row to stand opposite the vacant space in the other, 

 thus: 



When set, cut off all the tops within about two 

 inches of the ground. This will cause two or more 

 shoots to spring up. The next year these are to be 

 cut off within about six inches of the ground — which 

 will cause many lateral shoots to form, and thus 

 make the hedge thick and close. Or, if the plants 

 are set in a single line, the following is a good plan: 



When there are two or three stems to each plant, cut 

 to within six inches of the ground all but one to each 

 plant, which leave eighteen inches, then bend down 

 the first to a curve not exceeding eight inches in 

 height — fasten it with a peg, and then twist the top 

 of the next plant under the curve of the first, as seen 

 in the engraving." 



