286 



THE GENESEE FARMER. 



Dec. 



Beurrc Sentin, 



Beurre of Bcswiller, 



Bon Chretien d'Esperen. 



Bon Chretien of Brussells, 



Bergainotte Sylvange, 



Bergamotte Fortunee, 



Beauty of Winter, 



Belmont, 



Bezi Vact, 



Bruno tie Bosco, 



Blangcnt a longue guene, 



Bingo Master, 



Cuvelier, 



Chat Grille, 



Chain a Dame, 



Charles Van Moris, 



Cassolette, 



( onipte de Fresnel, 



Copea, 



Caillat Kosat, 



Clara, 



Clapp, 



Citron de Sierens, 



Dearborn of Van Mons, 



Downton, 



Duquesne d'Ete, 



Doyenne Mons, 



Deschamps' New Late, 



Dunbarton. 



Doyenne Diere, 



Endicott, 



Elton, 



Frederic of Prussia, 



Fanienga, 



Forme Urbaniste, 



Fantasie Van Mons, 



Forme des Delicaa 



French Iron, 



Green Zair, 



Grise Bonne, 



Garnstone, 



Green Catharine, 



Jargonelle, (of the French) 



Kramelsbrine, 



Lincoln, 



Louis of Bologna, 



Lederbrine, 



Louis Bonne, 



Lansac, 



Madam Vert, 



Millar's Seedling, 



Marquis, 



Marcelis, 



Navez, 



Orange, 



Orange Tulippe, 



Phillips, 



Pittfow, 



Piatt's Bergamot, 



Passe Long Bras, 



Princes Portugal, 



Pope's Scarlet Major, 



Pitt's Marie Louise, 



Royal d'Hiver, 



Rouse Lench, 



Rousselett St. Vincent, 



Sans Pepins, 



Swan's Egg, 



Surpass Meuris, 



Saint Bruno, 



Swiss Bergamot, 



Sousreine, 



Sickler. 



Thompson 0/ N. Hampshire, 



Tucker's Seedling. 



Trubserherdz Dulle, 



Whitfield, 



Winter Orange, 



Wurtzer d'Automne, 



Yutle, 



Orassane, 



Winter Crassane, 



Citron of Bohemia, 



Madotte. 



HINTS FOR THE SEASON. 



Up to this time, (Nov. 16,) the weather has been 

 remarkably mild here. Many border plants, such as 

 Monthly Roses, Scarlet Geraniums, Phloxes, Salvias, 

 Pansiee, Mignonette, and many late blooming an- 

 nuals, are yet in full bloom — looking better, indeed, 

 than at any previous period this season. Dahlias 

 even were not injured till about a week ago, and this 

 is quite unusual with us. But with this mildness 

 we have had immense quantities of rain; every third 

 or fourth day has been rainy since about the first of 

 October. Just at this time the weather is delightful, 

 and is affording to every body who heeds it a fine 

 opportunity for completing in a proper manner their 

 out door planting and gardening matters. 



Transplanting will now be finished. It should 

 be remembered that fall planted trees are not safe 

 until properly staked and mulched with manure or 

 litter, to guard the roots against the effects of frost, 

 and every precaution should be taken to prevent water 

 from lodging about the roots, in the slightest degree, 

 as it is almost certain death. All trees and shrubs 

 that are in any degree tender should, in addition to 

 staking and mulching, be protected with a sheathing 

 of straw tied loosely around them. Many trees and 

 shrubs that are perfectly hardy when well established, 

 require care of this sort the first or second year after 

 planting. A simple and effectual way of protecting 

 young plants of rare evergreens, that cannot be 

 wrapped up in straw is to place a small box or barrel 

 over them, after being well mulched. Strawberry 

 Beds, particularly those recently made, should be 

 covered a few inches deep with leaves. Raspberry 

 Canes should be laid down and covered slightly with 

 earth. Some seasons this is quite unnecessary, but 

 it is always safe, as it insures a crop next season, 

 whatever the winter may be, and the labor required 

 is a mere trifle. The large plantations of market 



growers, near New York, are all protected in this 

 way. Bulbous roots, such as Hyacinths, Tulips, 

 fee, should have a covering of leaves or straw to 

 prevent the frost penetrating to the bulbs or drawing 

 them to the surface. In cases of newly planted beds 

 this is quite indispensable. 



Rare or delicate Roses should all be carefully pro- 

 tected. Standard or tree roses are best managed by 

 taking them up and winteringthem in the cellar with 

 the roots in the ground, and planting out again in 

 the spring. This is the practice in France where 

 the climate is not unlike ours, and where in many 

 cases, whole acres of these rose trees are grown. 

 Transplanting has a good effect upon them. The 

 tops are always well cut back, when planted out, 

 and this encourages a strong growth of flowering 

 wood during the following season. If not taken up, 

 they should be securely staked and the trunk well 

 protected with straw, and a good mulching of manure 

 or litter be placed around the roots. We allude to 

 these matters because we know that many persons 

 are now planting such things, that do not possess 

 the necessary information to take care of them, and 

 will most likely treat a rose tree as they would an 

 apple tree. 



Carnations and Monthly Roses, and many half 

 hardy border plants may be wintei'ed nicely in a little 

 pit, some three feet deep, with a common hot-bed 

 frame in it and covered with glazed sashes or boards 

 and matts, or straw, and well lined around the out- 

 side with manure, or banked up with earth. Such 

 pits as these are valuable to persons who have no 

 green house, and if well managed answer every 

 purpose. They will require occasional airings in 

 mild weather, removal of dead and decaying leaves 

 and wood, and a sharp look out always for vermin. 



Every spring we hear people tell about losing their 

 Dahlia Roots. They either freeze or rot. The 

 roots after being taken up should be well dried in 

 the sun, or if that cannot be done, near a fire, and 

 then be put away on a shelf in a dry place. A little 

 heat will do them no harm. A damp cellar is sure 

 to rot them. They should be frequently examined 

 and the decaying portions of the stem or tubers 

 removed. A very good way is to put them, after 

 being dried, in perfectly dry sand — dried by a fire. 



Rubbish of all sorts, piles of brush, stone, &c, 

 that afford harbor for vermin, should never be permit- 

 ted around a garden or orchard, and long grass or 

 weeds in the neighborhood of trees is highly danger- 

 ous. For the amount of a days labor of a man (cost- 

 ing 75 cents) in removing such nuisance, whole 

 orchards of trees are sometimes ruined, and hedges too. 

 Towards Autumn people are too apt to slacken their 

 culture, and allow weeds and grass to run wild — imag- 

 ining that it will do no harm while growth is- suspend- 

 ed, but experience to the contrary is often dearly 

 bought. 



Trenching, spading and manuring of gardens, 

 and spading and manuring around neglected trees, 

 should proceed now, as long as it is possible to work 

 the ground. It is the period of the year when most 

 leisure is enjoyed by all classes of people, besides it 

 is the very best period for performing this work. 



Fallen leaves should all be cleanly raked up from 

 the garden walks, grass plot, and all around the 

 premises, and be carried to the compost heap. If 

 left where they are they become decayed before they 

 are removed in spring, and injure the grass, and har- 

 bor vermin durinjr the winter. 



