250 



The Grape Culturisi. 



when N^ature furnishes fruit to our 

 hand in the best possible condition ; 

 but along the northern border of suc- 

 cessful grape culture (just where vines 

 have been most largely planted, and 

 where the best wines should be pro- 

 duced) there is a deficiency of heat 

 in most seasons, and the grapes conse- 

 quently have too much acid and too 

 little sugar to yield good wine. Art, 

 then, must assist Nature. The pro- 

 cesses of Gall and of Petiot, rightly 

 understood and applied, entirely pre- 

 vent the losses arising from insuffi- 

 cient ripening, banish flat, sour, and 

 undrinkable wines from the market, 

 check the production of brand}^, and 

 many ways work advantageously for 

 the producer of wines, and for hu- 

 manity. Yet mistaken and narrow 

 views have led to much opposition to 

 these methods; and have even caused 

 them to be decried as specious forms 

 of adulteration, by those who stand 

 forth as champions of what they are 

 pleased to call ''natural wines." 



The question has been much de- 

 bated in Europe, and is likel}^ to be in 

 this country, as soon as increased 

 production of wine involves it. It is, 

 therefore, very desirable that this 

 matter should be examined in all its 

 bearings, and thoroughly understood. 

 There is a very readable chapter on the 

 subject in Dr. Mohr's excellent work, 

 Der Weinstock und der Wein, of which 

 I believe there is no English version 

 attainable. Dr. Mohr's scientific 

 reputation, surroundings, and pur- 

 suits give great weight to his opinion. 



I translate the following from the 

 chapter entitled ''Verbesserung des 

 Weines " — The Improvement of Wine. 



" The vine is not an indigenous 



plant; its culture demands the kindly 

 unintermitted care of man. In our 

 district, moreover, in most seasons, its 

 fruit is of a quality that leaves much 

 to be desired. To us who dwell in 

 fifty degrees of north latitude Natui'e 

 often denies the requisite sunlight, 

 and therewith sugar in our grapes 

 and spirit in our wine. Add to this, 

 that in just these seasons acid is sure 

 to be present in excess, and a bever- 

 age is supplied us which ceases to 

 afford enjoyment. That which is 

 palatable to man is something quite 

 decided, and restricted to certain lim- 

 its. Wine with less than six per 

 cent, of alcohol we consider flat, and 

 with more than one per cent, of acid 

 unpleasantly sour. Now if, in a cold 

 season, Nature affords us a must con- 

 taining from twelve to fourteen per 

 cent, of sugar, and from one and 

 five-tenths to one and eight-tenths per 

 cent, of acid, we must of necessity 

 set aside as undrinkable the natural 

 wine resulting from such must, or 

 make good the deficiency due to cli- 

 mate in some way or other ; and in 

 this conjuncture arises the question, 

 Is the perfecting of natural wines ad- 

 missible or not ? This question has 

 been considerably agitated in the last 

 score of years, but has not been 

 treated with calmness or circumspec- 

 tion by either party, chiefly because 

 self-interest has mingled in the de- 

 bate. It is scarcely possible that 

 there should arise any doubt that one 

 may through art supply the failings of 

 Nature, for on this our whole mode 

 of life is grounded. 



" Our clothing, our dwellings, our 

 furnaces, and gas lights are by no 

 means natural, but mere appliances 



