228 TRAVELS OF A NATURALIST 



ascertain if these were formed by the Common Kook, or 

 if the Hooded Crows breed here in colonies, but further 

 north these colonies of nests became scarcer, and finally 

 disappeared. 



With regard to the scenery along our route from 

 Vologda to Archangel, there is not much to be said in 

 its praise. At a few points the road certainly was pretty, 

 as it wound in graceful curves amongst the tall pines, and 

 glimpses occasionally given to the right or left over an 

 undulating, almost hilly country, similarly wooded, relieved 

 the monotony. 



Of Kussian villages, all that need be said is that they 

 closely resemble one another. There is a broad road 

 though some, on each side of which the houses stand with 

 their ends or gables to the road ; whilst in others the road 

 swings abruptly round corners and plunges down a steep 

 hill, and the houses are dotted about in a more irregular 

 manner. 



After reaching the Dvina the scenery improves a little ; 

 the noble snow-covered river is backed with clay or earth 

 cliffs on the further shores, which are crowned by the 

 dense pine-forests. 



Travelling without ' paderojna,' and being supplied by 

 the stationmaster with a list of the stations and distances, 

 paying at the rate of three kopeks per horse per verst for 

 three horses, we found little or no difficulty, and the 

 people were honest. 



It is advisable always to carry small money, as change 

 is not usually to be had along the route. 



Our luggage was packed partly under the driver's seat 

 and partly under us as a seat during the day, and at night 

 we levelled the place over by taking out some from under 

 the seat and placing it where our feet had been during 

 the day. Thus we could stretch our legs to the full 

 extent, and we slept well generally. I experienced no 



