72 TRAVELS ON THE AMAZON. [December. 



earth might have been as much elevated as they are at present, 

 notwithstanding the numerous remains of aquatic reptiles, 

 which would seem to indicate a great extent of shallow water 

 for their abode. 



The alligator fat and a quantity of fish were now ready, so 

 we prepared to return home. I determined this time to walk 

 overland, so as to see the character of the interior of the 

 island. I returned with the two Negroes to the ruined cottage 

 before mentioned, so as to be ready to start the next morning 

 for a walk of some ten or twelve miles across the campo. On 

 our way to the hut we passed over a part which was burning, 

 and saw the curious phenomenon of the fire proceeding in 

 two opposite directions at once. The wind carried the fire 

 rapidly in a westerly direction, while, at the same time, 

 by causing the tall grass to bend over into the flames, they 

 progressed, though at a slower rate, towards the east. The 

 campos are set on fire purposely every summer, as the coarse 

 grass being burnt down, leaves room for a fine crop to spring 

 up afresh with the first rains. Near the hut I shot a large 

 grey heron, which made us a very good supper ; and we then 

 hung up our hammocks for the night in the little dirty ruined 

 hut, from which a short time before a jaguar had carried away 

 a large bundle of fish. 



In the morning the canoe was loaded to return, and I 

 proceeded along a faint track homewards. The scene was 

 generally very desolate and barren. Sometimes there was 

 not a blade of grass for miles. Then would come a wide bed 

 of gigantic rushes, which extends across the island nearly from 

 one side to the other. In other places were large beds of 

 prickly mimosas, and, at intervals, considerable tracts covered 

 with leafless trees about which numbers of woodpeckers were 

 busily at work. Hawks and vultures were also seen, and the 

 great red-billed toucan (Rhamphastos Toco) flew by in an undu- 

 lating course in parties of three or four. It was cloudy, and 

 there was a good deal of wind ; but at this time of the year no 

 rain ever falls here, so I did not hurry myself on that account, 

 and, early in the afternoon, reached the house, rather tired, 

 but much interested with my walk. I forgot to mention that 

 in the evening, after the alligator-hunt, the Negroes sang 

 several hymns, as a thanksgiving for having escaped their jaws. 



The next day all were busily employed boiling the fat into oil, 



