r849] THE JOURNEY COMMENCED. 79 



father, which, as he certainly resembled him, might have been 

 the case. He generally had a large chain round his body 

 and leg as a punishment, and to prevent his running away ; 

 he wore it concealed under his trousers, and it clanked very 

 disagreeably at every step he took. Of course this was taken 

 off when he was delivered over to me, and he promised to be 

 very faithful and industrious if I took him with me. I also 

 agreed with a lame Spaniard to go as pilot, because he said he 

 knew the river, and some little experience is required at the 

 time of the Pirordco. He begged for a few milreis beforehand 

 to purchase some clothes ; and when I wanted him to assist 

 me in loading the canoe he was feasting on biscuit and cheese, 

 with oil, vinegar, and garlic, washing it down so plentifully 

 with caxaga that he was quite intoxicated, so I was obliged to 

 wait till the next day, when, having spent all his money and 

 got a little sober, he was very quiet and submissive. 



At length, all being ready, we started, rowing along quietly 

 with the flood-tide, as there was no wind, and at night, when 

 the tide turned, anchoring a few miles up the Guama. This is 

 a fine stream, about half a mile wide in the lower part. A 

 short distance up, the banks are rather undulating, with many 

 pretty sitios. During ebb-tide we managed generally to anchor 

 near some house or cottage, where we could get on shore and 

 make a fire under a tree to cook our dinner or supper. Luiz 

 would then take his gun and I my insect-net, and start off into 

 the forest to make the most of our time till the tide turned 

 again, when we would continue our voyage, and I generally had 

 occupation skinning birds or setting out insects till the evening. 

 About thirty miles above Para the Pirordco commences. 

 There was formerly an island in the river at this point, but it is 

 said to have been completely washed away by the continual 

 action of the bore, which, after passing this place, we rather 

 expected to see, now being the time of the highest tides, 

 though at this season (May) they are not generally high enough 

 to produce it with any great force. It came, however, with a 

 sudden rush, a wave travelling rapidly up the stream, and 

 breaking in foam all along the shore and on the shallows. It 

 lifted our canoe just as a great rolling ocean-wave would do, 

 but, being deep water, did no harm, and was past in an instant, 

 the tide then continuing to flow up with very great velocity. 

 The highest tide was now past, so at the next we had no wave, 



