I849-J TRIP IN A MONTARIA. 101 



rendered it very unsteady whenever there came a little extra 

 puff of wind. Numerous divers and darters were swimming in 

 the river or seated upon trees on its banks. We tried to shoot 

 some, but without effect, as these birds are so active in the 

 water that even when wounded they dive and swim beneath it 

 so rapidly as to render all attempt to capture them fruitless. 

 We then entered a narrower branch of the stream, which we 

 soon found to be much impeded by water-plants growing in 

 large floating masses. We had now no wind, and had to 

 paddle, till the weeds blocked up the channel so completely 

 that we could get on no further. Our Indian then went 

 ashore, and cut two long poles with forked ends, and with 

 these we commenced pushing on the canoe by means of the 

 great masses of weeds, which were so thick and solid as to 

 afford a tolerable hold to the fork. Now and then we would 

 emerge into clear water, and could row a little among pretty 

 Utricularias and Pontederias. Then, again, we would enter 

 into a mass of weeds and tall grass, completely filling up the 

 channel and rising above our heads, through which we almost 

 despaired to make our way; the grass, too, cut the hands 

 severely if it merely brushed against them. On the banks 

 was now to be seen a vast extent of flat, grassy campo, half 

 water and half land, which in the rainy season is a complete 

 lake. After forcing our way with great labour for several 

 miles, we at length reached the cattle estate, where we were 

 kindly received by the owner, to whom we had a note of 

 introduction. 



The house was situated close to the great marsh which 

 extends from the Amazon to the serras. It was built of mud, 

 with two or three rooms, and an open shed adjoining, used as 

 kitchen and sleeping-place for the Indians. A corral a square 

 enclosed yard for the cattle was near, and at the back rose 

 the sloping ground towards the mountain. All around were 

 interspersed thickets and open ground, and the picturesque 

 masses of cactus rose in every direction. We strolled about a 

 little before dark, and shot a couple of pretty green purple- 

 shouldered paroquets, one of the smallest species that inhabits 

 the country. When we returned to the house we were offered 

 some new milk, and then sat outside the door looking at the 

 strange accoutrements of some of the herdsmen, who were 

 going on horseback to some distant part of the estate. Their 



