No. 6. 



Fruit and Fruit Trees. 



89 



end on one side also in a sloping manner, the 

 length of and to fit the slope of the stock, as 

 if cut from the same place, that the rinds -of 

 both may join as nearly as possible, in every 

 part; then make a slit upwards iu the slope 

 of the scion, so as to form a sort of tongue, 

 to fit that made in the slope of the slock, 

 which insert therein, so that ihe rinds of both 

 may join together, or on one side, if the stock 

 is larger than the graft; then bind the parts 

 together with the woollen yarn, bringing it 

 round the stock and graft moderately tight, 

 and fastened accordingly; make a plaster of 

 the composition between your finger and 

 thumb, and wrap it round the stock and 

 graft over the ligature, squeeze it in your 

 hand, so as to make it snug and tight, to I 

 keep the sap and exclude the rain and air, 

 particularly at the ends. When the buds on | 

 the grafts have grown four or five inches, I 

 which will be about the middle of June or 

 earlier or later, according to the season, the 

 ligature becomes too tight, and will endan- 

 ger the grafts ; place the point of the knife ' 

 on the upper side of the bandage or plaster, ; 

 press it down through the composition and i 

 threads so as to cut them all in two, and take ! 

 off the bandage and plaster entire. If the; 

 stock is large, and the graft is matched and ; 

 united only on one side, leaving the other 

 side exposed, put the plaster taken off, or a ' 

 little composition over the exposed part. j 



ROOT GRAFTING. ! 



This is done by whip grafting upon your 

 seedling trees of the size of a quarter to an I 

 eighth of ail inch, taken up, whip grafted at| 

 the root, and re-planted, and is practised in i 

 nurseries for want of better stocks. It may ' 

 also be done upon pieces of roots of about! 

 i of an inch in diameter and less, either by| 

 letting the roots remain or separating, and 

 after grafting replanting them. No compo- 

 sition is required ; the yarn by which the' 

 graft roots are tied together will rot off and 

 make room for growth. Large roots mayi 

 be cleft grafted, and then the composition is 

 to be used. 



CUOWN GRAFTING, 



May be practised upon such stocks as have 

 become too large and stubborn to cleave, 

 and then two, four, or more grafts inserted 

 round the crown of the stock in a circular 

 order, introduced between the bark and wood ; 

 this cannot be done until the bark peels free- 

 ly—the grafts are subject to be blown off. 

 The stock will be a long tin^e in healir.o- 

 over, and is subject to decay. ° 



SIDE GRAFTING. 



This is done by inserting the grnfts into 

 the sides of the branches without heading 

 them down. To fill up any vacancy on trees 



thus : prepare the scion as for whip graftino-, 

 by sloping and tongueing it; then cuta chfp 

 from the place where the graft is to be in- 

 serted, of the same size with the slope on 

 the graft in such manner that the wood on 

 the slope of the graft will' cover and fit the 

 wood laid bare by taking out the chip ; cut 

 a notch or tongue on the stock to fit that on 

 the graft, and match them firmly together; 

 cover the parts matched with composition 

 when necessary, first binding them together 

 as in whip grafting. Nothing further^is ne- 

 cessary, except pruning, as directed in cleft 

 grafting. 



BUDDING OR INOCULATING. 



Budding should be performed on stocks 

 of thrifty, vigorous growth. They may be 

 raised by budding young trees about half an 

 inch in diameter, near the ground. Buds in- 

 serted in this manner, willgroXv five and six 

 feet and upwards in one season, and will 

 form straight and smooth stems and fine 

 trees. Budding may also be performed in 

 the branches of young trees in the top, and 

 leading, and side shoots; butif in the season 

 of grafting, and you have plenty of scions, 

 the latter is preferable. Roses,'Lilacs, &c. 

 &c. may be budded at any time after they 

 are full grown, and as many kinds as there 

 are of either, may be put on the same stock 

 together, and form a pleasing variety. 



TIME AND SEASON FOR BUDDING. 



The seasons proper for budding are two. 

 1st, the spring, beginning after the sap flows 

 and the bark peels freely, until the first of 

 June, with buds cut from scions preserved 

 as for grafting, and before used buned or 

 immersed in water, or fresh from the tree ; 

 or 2nd, (and which is the proper season) in 

 the summer and fall, with fair, full grown 

 buds, of the same season, taken from well 

 ripened shoots, fresh from the tree, or kept 

 with care only for a short time ; otherwise it 

 will be labor lost. In the summer or fall it 

 should not be done so early as to cause the 

 bud to shoot the same season ; the short time 

 they will have to grow before cold weather, 

 will not admit of their becoming ripened and 

 prepared to withstand the winter frosts. On 

 the other hand, it should not be put off too 

 late and be performed, whilst the sap flows 

 and the bark 'peels freely, and before the 

 trees or shoots become bound, which time 

 varies in the different kinds of trees, and is 

 a little sooner or later according to the sea- 

 son, whether it be wet or dry, but generally 

 as follows : The cherry, plum, and pear tree 

 become bark-bound by the 1st of August, 

 and should, together with the apricot, if 

 worked on plum stocks, be inoculated the 

 second or third week in July. 1'he apple 

 trees become bark-bound about the first of 



