364 



Inoculation and Budding. 



Vol. II. 



dered the best months for budding. The for- 

 mer is the most suitable season, as the trees 

 are then in a more growing state, and butls 

 inserted in thrifty trees succeed the best. A 

 cloudy day, or an early or late hour, is the 

 best time for budding, as the buds will then 

 suffer less in being separated from the shoot. 

 — Yankee Farmer. 



Budding should never be done when the 

 trees are covered with moisture, as it would 

 then be difficult to prevent its swelling the 

 bud, and thus prevent its adhering. Care 

 should also be taken that the ligature be not 

 bound round the stock too tightly, especially 

 if the stock be young and tender ; and that 

 it be removed as soon as it begins to cut into; 

 the bark. There are some buds, such, for in-] 

 stance, as the peach, which are very liable^ 

 to be killed by the winter. The danger ofi 

 this may be avoided, by observing on the tree, 

 whence the shoots are taken, what buds ofj 

 last year's growth have withstood the winteri 

 — these will be found to be such as grow on 

 the most thrifty shoots, and which were ear- 

 liest formed in the season. Such are, there- 

 fore, to be selected in budding, as the same 

 buds which remain uninjured upon the tree, 

 will remain unh\irt when inserted into stocks. 

 — Genesee Farmer. 



" The only implement necessary is a bud- 

 ding knife, (fig. 70,) and the only preparation 

 some bass matting, or the inner bark of the 

 basswood or linden. 



Fig. 70. 



Professor Thouin enumerates twenty spe- 

 cies or varieties of grafting, most of which 

 are only practised by amateurs and profes- 

 sional gardeners. We shall describe only 

 the common mode, which is in general prac- 

 tice in nurseries. We take it from the En- 

 cyclopedia of Gardening. 



Shield-budding, or T budding, is thus per- 

 formed: — Fix on a smooth part of the side of 

 the stock, rather from than towards the sun, 

 and of a height depending, as in grafting, on 

 whether dwarf, half, or whole standard trees 

 are desired; then, with the budding knife, 

 make a horizontal cut across the rind, quite 

 through to the firm wood ; from the middle of 

 this transverse cut, make a slit downward,! 

 perpendicularly, an incli or more long, going 

 also quite tlirough to the wood. This done, 

 proceed with all expedition to take off a bud ;; 

 holding the cutting, or scion, in one hand,' 

 with the thickest end outward, and with the 

 knife in the other hand, enter it about half an 

 inch or more below a bud, cutting nearly half 

 way into the wood of the shoot, continuing it 

 with one clear slanting cut, about half an inch 

 or more above the bud, so deep as to take aj 



about an inch and a half long ; (a fig. 57,) 

 then directly with the thumb and finger, or 

 point of the knife, clip off the woody part re- 

 maining to the bud ; which done, observe 

 v/liether the eye or germ of the bud remains 

 perfect ; if not, aiid a little hole appears in 

 that part, it is improper, or, as gardeners ex- 

 press it, the bud has lost its root, and another 

 must be prepared. This done, placing the 

 back part of the bud or shield between your 

 "ips, expeditiously, with the flat haft of the 

 knife, separate the back of the stock on each 

 side of the perpendicular cut, clear to the 

 wood, (c) for the admission of the bud, which 

 directly slip down, close between the wood 

 and bark, to the bottom of the slit,(<?.) The 

 next operation is to cut off the top part of the 

 shield,(J) even with the horizontal first made 

 cut, in order to let it completely into its place, 

 and to join exactly the upper edge of the shield 

 with the transverse cut, that the descending 

 sap may immediately enter the back of the 

 shield, and protrude granulated matter be- 

 tween it and the wood, so as to effect a living 

 union. The parts are now to be immediately 

 bound round with a ligament of fresh bass,(e) 

 previously soaked in water, to render it plia- 

 ble and tough, beginning a little below the 

 bottom of the perpendicular slit, proceeding 

 upward closely round every part, except just 

 round the eye of the bud, and continue it a 

 ittle above the horizontal cut, not too tight, 

 but just sufficient to keep the whole close, 

 and exclude the air, sun and wet. 



d 



Fig. 71. 



Future Treatment. — In a fortnight at far- 

 thest, after budding, such as have adhered 

 may be known by their fresh appearance at 

 the eye ; and in three weeks, all those which 

 have succeeded will be firmly united with 

 the stock, and the parts being somewhat 

 swelled in some species, the bandage must be 

 loosened, and a week or two atl;erwards finally 

 removed. The shield and bud now swell in 

 common with the other parts of the stock ; 

 and nothing more requires to be done till 

 spring, when, just before the rising of the 

 sap, they are to be headed down close to tha 

 bud, by an oblique cut, terminating about a^ 

 eighth or quarter of an inch above the shield. 

 In some cases, however, as in grafting, a few 

 inches of the stalk is left for the first season, 

 and the young shoot lied to it for protection 

 from the winds." 



The reader is referred to pages 88, 89, and flO, of 



or more auuve ui« uuu, ou uccp a=, lu ta,vc a, j,^- ^,^^^^^,1 voh.mo of the Cabinet, for an interesting 

 part of the wood along with it, the whole ami valuable treatise ou Grafting, Budding, (Stc. 



