152 



InEW ENGLAND FARIVIER. 



March 



these aprons of stout drilling — such as is used for 

 men's overalls. The calico or gingham aprons 

 are very good to we.ar when a person, though at- 

 tired in a nice drcts, must superintend or do some 

 simple household service. 



A short sack, to be worn when sweeping and 

 dusting, will be very useful. It thould be put on 

 with the apron over the nice dress if ironing or 

 cooking is to be done. Cut it according to the 

 pattern of such a garment for out-door wear, from 

 good gingham or calico. There is quite an advan- 

 tage in using this sack and apron at times, instead 

 of the working dress, because they are so easily 

 removed. 



A woman who does much sewing has need of 

 Pirmlets, made of brown linen or silesia, reaching 

 from the wrist to the elbow, fitting snugly — but 

 not tigiit— just stitched with one seam and hemmed 

 at each end ; and a brown linen or gingham apron, 

 covering the front of her dress — both waist and 

 skirt. It may be made quite becoming with a lit- 

 tle border of bright print, or a small pattern of 

 embroidery in braid near the edge. Half the 

 length of the apron may be stitched up at the sides 

 to make it one large pocket to hold articles of nee- 

 dlework ; or two small ones a little larger than 

 the palm of the hand, having been ornamented 

 like the edge of the apron, may be stitched — four 

 inches from each side — about three inches below 

 the belt, — these are convenient for holding sewing 

 implements. Don't ruffle these aprons — the sim- 

 pler they are made the better they look. 



A wrapper is a very comfortable garment for an 

 invalid, or for one who has little stirring work to 

 do. It is now generally made like a long, loose 

 casaque (by some spelled cassock) and one of tho^e 

 outside garments will furnish a good pattern. But 

 the old-fashioned style with long, straight breadths 

 and a yoke neck is more desirable, — especially 

 in case of sickness. Make this dress of plain 

 thibet, lyonese, or empress cloth, or all-wool de- 

 laine, if it is more for show than use. Give it a bor- 

 der of tome contrasting color, cither narrow cross- 

 wise l)ands of the same sort of goods, or of silk or 

 ribbon. Place a row of buttons or rosettes of the 

 same color down the front ; and border the yoke 

 and the wristbands with the same, as also the belt, 

 or wear with ic a girdle cord of a like shade. 

 AVi-appers should be made double. If exclusively 

 for winter use, wadding should be tacked or quilted 

 to the wrong side of the inner material, over the 

 shoulders and the chest, and the sleeves should 

 have doulile 1 inings. These are handsome dresses ; 

 but very pretty ones are made of cotton-and-wool 

 cashmere or delaine, or calico of quiet, modest 

 colors in small figures, with a border of brighter 

 hues, cither figured or striped, — calico is surer to 

 wash well, and to last longer than the cashmere or 

 the delaine. 



For a yoke-neck wrapper fit a waist lining as for 

 a working-dress — loosely and comfortably. The 

 yoke covers this lining from the throat to over the 



fall of the shoulder ; and here the sleeves — which 

 are long and full, gathered into a wristband — are 

 inserted. Three widths of folded goods, or six of 

 calico or delaine, make the skirt, which is plaited, 

 and attached to the lining under the yoke. Hem 

 or face and bind the skirt, which should be just 

 loniT enough to escape touching the floor; a dress 

 of this sort that drags, or sweeps, or lies like a 

 a train, has a very ugly appearance. 



Skirt-bindings, which are usually of worsted or 

 alpaca l)raid, must be shrunken before they are 

 used, by letting them lie a few minutes in scalding 

 water and then placing them immediately in cold 

 water, from which they are wrung, partially dried, 

 and then pressed. This prevents that tightness of 

 the binding which gives the edge of the skirt a 

 puckered appearance after wearing it in wet 

 weather. 



A casaque wrapper usually wears out soonest 

 about and under the arm-size, on the front of the 

 waist. To mend this, rip out the sleeve above all thin 

 places ; also the seam under the arm and the first 

 bias, or, as some call it, dart seam. Then cut the 

 cloth from the seam under the arm to this bias, in 

 a slightly sloping line, just where the belt comes; 

 and then extend the bias in a sweeping direction, 

 aI)ove all thin places, to the arm-size. Take this 

 old piece, thus cut out, and from new material cut 

 an exact copy, matching the figures and color 

 closely, allowing enough for a strong seam. Stitch 

 it very carefully ; see that the added length of the 

 bias is not fulled or drawn, and then dampen and 

 press it on the wrong side. Sew and finish in the 

 same way the sloping seam at the belt, and then 

 re-stitch the bias and the other seams that have 

 been ripped. Mend rents and button holes as men- 

 tioned in the chapter on men's clothing. For 

 darning, don't forget to use ravellings of the same 

 material as that which forms the dress, — as also 

 there mentioned. In case of a very bad rent in an 

 exposed part of the skirt, mend it nicely, either 

 by darning or inserting a new piece ; and if it can 

 be hidden near the top of the plaits, and the fig- 

 ure will bear reversal, rip out the breadth and use 

 all your ingenuity in getting the mended spot out 

 of sight, in the fold of a plait. 



In selecting fabrics for tight dresses — as those 

 are called that fit the form closely — the common 

 style of women's dresses, — be guided somewhat by 

 your figure and complexion, as well as by your 

 age, as to their colors ; by your purse, as to their 

 price and capacity for retaining their original 

 qualities ; and endeavor to get those upon which 

 the eye will rest the longest with satisfaction, and 

 the mind dwell upon with approval. Stout 

 persons should always wear plain goods ; shorty 

 striped ; tall, checked or plaided ; slender persons 

 look best in figured. The colors, dral), gray, stone 

 color, dark-green and claret suit all complexions; 

 blue, pink, lilac and light-green only light; while 

 cloudy and dark complexions should wear yellow, 

 buff, purple, crimson, red, brown, dark blue and 



