1868. 



NEW ENGLAOT) FAKI^IER. 



1,55 



tables upon folly and extravagance, that you shall 

 become the bonnet, if the bonnet do not become 

 you ; and by perseverance in your endeavors you 

 will at length be successful in winning whatever 

 elegance or gi-ace you may desire for the perfec- 

 tion of your work. I 



Straw bonnets and hats are the best for common ' 

 wear, and any one can make them look pretty and 

 becoming, by observing what colors agree with 

 her complexion and choosing their ribbons accord- 

 ingly. If she can atford the more fanciful struc- 

 tures — of lace, or crape, or silk, or velvet — she 

 rrmst have one of straw, for that can stand all weath- 

 ers and all usage ; it looks proper on all occasions, 

 too, if neatly kept. But all others soon get out of 

 shape if exposed to dampness— crape and lace are 

 so delicate that even the evening dews may ruin 

 them ; in fact all fancy hats and bonnets, by con- 

 stant wearing, very quickly lose their beauty, and 

 nothing is so detrimental to a woman's personal 

 appearance as a soiled or dilapiuated bonnet. 



The suits of dress, sack and bonnet, all of the 

 same material, are the prettiest style yet invented, 

 and a very economical one. The best are made 

 of modcst-hued goods, and delicately trimmed. 

 The waist and sleeves are plain ; the skirt gored, 

 and of moderate width and lengch. There is no 

 need of two skirts, or even trimming to simulate 

 an extra one — it is handsomer without. The sack 

 is of medium size. The bonnet, of plainest form; 

 depending not upon ornament for its effect, yet 

 holding a few small rosebuds or violets, or a bit of 

 ribbon and lace, that set off to the best advantage 

 the wearer's hair and complexion. Whoever is 

 the possessor of such a costume may rest assured 

 that she presents an agreeable appearance. Yet 

 it is a cheap dress — ten dollars will cover the cost 

 of the whole suit, if she makes it herself, — and 

 with care it will sufBce for company, visiting, 

 walking and travelling, nine months in the year, 

 for two years, at least ; and it is to be hoped that 

 the style will last ten times that length. 



Of all the various jackets that have been adopted 

 during the last few years the Garibaldi continues 

 highest in favor. Made of muslin it has come to 

 be regarded almost a necessity for summer wear, 

 and being very cheap and also easy to make, (it 

 should copy the pattern of the waist and sleeves 

 of the working-dress, except that the lining is low 

 in the neck,) no young woman should be without 

 it. While the more ambitious fabrics gain much 

 from a union with its unsullied purity, even a 

 calico or a gingham skirt takes on a hitherto un- 

 known beauty from its companionship. 



Muslin and lace are becoming to all, because of 

 their translucence and pearly whiteness ; and 

 therefore, in the form of collar and cuffs, either 

 plain or embroidered, they make the best edgings 

 for garments where they border upon the skin. 

 The opaque, dead white of cambric has a contrary 

 effect, so that pique and Marseilles jackets are not 

 so desirable though many wear them. 



Mend all these goods with great care, muslins, 

 and laces with muslin ravellings — the thicker fab- 

 rics with their own threads. Darn all bracks, and 

 fill holes with patches whose edges are so nicely 

 darned into the material that only the closest scru- 

 tiny can detect them. This is done by first bast- 

 ing them in neatly and then taking the stitches 

 thread by thread, following the weaving with the 

 needle. When rents occur among the tigures in 

 embroidered muslin or lace you can frequently 

 cut out the plain portion fi'om figure to figure, and 

 insert new in this way, even if you take out a con- 

 siderable portion of uninjured fabric. Wrought 

 muslin and lace should always be pieced by lap- 

 ping one figure over another, when the embroidery 

 is not heavy enough to make such joining notice- 

 able, and tacking it securely with fine thread on 

 the wrong side and around the edges of the figure. 

 Otherwise, trim the edge of the figure carefully 

 with scissors from the plain lace or muslin and 

 sew it in very nice overstitch to the plain portion 

 of that which j'ou wish to unite with it. 



Be dainty in the choice of gloves and careful in 

 their usage. Kid gloves to wear well should be 

 an exact fit. If too loose they are unsightly and 

 deface quickly. If too tight they are always rip- 

 ping or tearing. Cheap gloves are not worth buy- 

 ing. If you cannot afford to pay the price of good 

 kid, content yourself with nice merino for winter, 

 with silk or raw silk or lisle thread for warm 

 weather — you will find many styles that are 

 beautiful and durable. Repair them as directed 

 in Chapter VII. When silk and cotton thread 

 gloves get stretched, take in their looseness at the 

 seams. If they are soiled, wash them with white 

 castile soap — upon the hands ; rinse them and 

 partially dry them in the same position, then take 

 them off and press them with a warm iron. This 

 often shrinks them a little, but they will look like 

 new. Kid gloves can be cleansed in the same 

 manner, using milk, instead of water, wiih the 

 soap. Keep these on the hands till perfectly dry, 

 and then "buff" them, — that is, rub them briskly 

 till they are smooth and soft. 



No systematic housekeeper will be without her 

 knitting or crochet-work for spare minutes. In 

 this way she can furnish other members of her 

 family, as well as herself, with mittens, scarfs, 

 hoods, jackets, or even shawls, which for beauty 

 and comfort are great additions to any wardrobe. 

 I have no space for giving the directions for their 

 fabrication, and, really, I think there is no need 

 of it ; for the bright colors and soft texture of 

 worsteds are so enticing to young fingers that a 

 knowledge of all their combinations is usually ac- 

 quired before they are sufficiently acquainted with 

 plain sewing. Although more important duties 

 engage the greater part of the time and thoughts 

 of the housekeeper, it is to be hoped that her early 

 fondness for such employment will induce her to 

 continue it during eveiy interval of leisure, as a 

 source of pleasant recreation, and of providing 



