310 



Transplanting Trees. 



Vol. XI. 



particularly the small and delicate fibres. 

 After being taken up, they should be planted 

 directly; or, if this cannot be done, they 

 should be kept fronf} drying by a covering of 

 mats, and when sent to a distance by being- 

 packed in damp moss.* 



Preparing the places. Here is the fatal 

 stumbling block of all novices and ignorant 

 persons in transplanting. An English gar- 

 dener, when he is about to plant fruit trees, 

 talks about preparing his borders, an Ame- 

 rican says he will dig his holes; and we 

 cannot give a more forcible illustration ofj 

 the ideas of two persons as to the wants of 

 a fruit tree, or a better notion of the com- 

 parative provision made to supply these 

 wants, than by contrasting the two phrase 

 themselves. The one looks upon a tree as 

 a living being, whose life is to be rendered 

 long, vigorous, and fruitful, by a good supply 

 of food, and a soil mellow and easily pene- 

 trated by the smallest fibre; the other con- 

 siders it very much in the light of a trun^ 

 cheon or a post, which he thrusts into the 

 smallest possible hole, and supplies with the 

 least portion of manure, trusting to what he 

 seems to believe the inextinguishable powers 

 of nature to make roots and branches under 

 any circumstances. It is true that the terms 

 differ somewhat from the nature of the cul- 

 ture and the greater preparation necessary 

 in planting fruit trees in England, but this is 

 not by any means sufficient to justify the 

 different modes of performing the same ope 

 ration there and here. 



In truth, in this country, where the sun 

 and climate are so favourable, where pruning 

 and training are comparatively so little ne- 

 cessary, the great requisite to success in the 

 ordinary culture of fruit trees is the proper 

 preparation of the soil before a tree is 

 planted. Whether a transplanted tree shall 

 struggle several years to recover, or grow 

 moderately after a short time, or at once 

 start into a very luxuriant and vigorous 

 growth, depends entirely upon the amount 

 of care and labour the planter is willing to 

 bestow on the soil for his trees. We have 

 seen several instances where, side by side, 

 one man planted his trees in large spaces of 

 deeply moved and rich soil, and another in 

 small holes in the common mode, which 

 uniformly showed the trees of the first, 



* We Bhould notice an important exception to this in 

 the case of trees packed for shipping across the At- 

 lantic. In this case they should be packed only in dry 

 moBs; the moisture of the sea air being sufficient to 

 keep the roots in good condition, while if packed in 

 damp mos?, they will be injured by rotting or eicessive 

 growth. 



larger after five years, than those of the 

 last, after twelve. 



No fruit tree should be planted in a hole 

 of less size than three feet square, and 

 eighteen inches to two feet deep. To this 

 size and depth the soil should be removed 

 and well pulverized, and it should, if neces- 

 sary, be properly enriched by the application 

 of manure, which must be thoroughly mixed 

 with the whole mass of prepared soil by re- 

 peated turnings with the spade. This pre- 

 paration will answer, but the most skilful 

 cultivators among us make their spaces four 

 or five feet in diameter, or three times the 

 size of the roots, and it is incredible how 

 much the luxuriance and vigor of growth, 

 even in a poor soil, are promoted by this. No 

 after mending of the soil, or top dressings 

 applied to the surface, can, in a climate of 

 dry summers like ours, equal the effects of 

 this early and deep loosening and enriching 

 the soil. Its effects on the growth and health 

 of the tree are permanent, and the little ex- 

 pense and care necessary in this preparation 

 is a source of early and constant pleasure to 

 the planter. This preparation may be made 

 just before the tree is planted, but in heavy 

 soils, it is much better to do it several months 

 previously; and no shallow ploughing of the 

 soil can obviate the necessity and advantages 

 of the practice, where healthy, vigorous or- 

 chards or fruit gardens are desired. 



The whole art of transplanting, after this, 

 consists in placing the roots as they were 

 before, or in the most favourable position for 

 growth. Begin by filling the hole with the 

 prepared soil, within as many inches of the 

 top as will allow the tree to stand exactly as 

 deep as it previously stood. With the spade, 

 shape this soil for tlie roots in the form of a 

 little hillock on which to place the roots — 

 and not, as is commonly done, in the form of 

 a hollow; the roots will then extend in their 

 natural position, not being forced to turn up 

 at the ends. Next examine the roots, and 

 cut off all wounded parts, paring the wound 

 smooth. Hold the tree upright on its little 

 mound in the hole of prepared soil ; extend 

 the roots and cover them carefully with the 

 remaining pulverized soil. As much of the 

 success of transplanting' depends on bring- 

 ing the soil in contact with every fibre, so 

 as to leave no hollows to cause tiie decay of 

 the roots, not only must this be secured by 

 patiently filling-in all cavities among the 

 roots, but when the trees are not quite small, 

 it is customary to pour in a pail of water 

 when the roots are nearly all covered with 

 soil. This carries the liquid mould to every 

 hidden part. After the water has settled 

 away, fill up the hole, pressing the earth 



