324 



Budding Fruit Trees.' 



-Prevention for Rot. 



Vol. XL 



CHERRIES. 

 For the best, three pounds of one or more 

 named varieties, $2. 



For the second best do. do. do. $1. 



STRAWBERRIES. 



For the be.st, two quarts of one or more 

 named varieties, ^2. 



For the second best do. do. do. $1. 



TURNIPS. 



For the best, one dozen, grown in the 

 open ground, to be exhibited, $1. 

 And at the stated meeting on the 15th proximo: 



PINKS. 



For the best, six named varieties to be 

 exhibited, $2. 



For the second best do. do. SI. 



For the best American Seedling, do. $2. 



GRAPES. 



For the best, three bunches, of a black 

 variety to be exhibited, $.3. 



For the best, three bunches, of a white 

 variety, to be exhibited, $3. 



PEARS. 

 For the best, one dozen to be exhibit- 

 ed, $2. 



CHERRIES. 



For the best, three pounds of one or more 

 named varieties, $2. 



For the second best do. do. do. $1. 



ARTICHOKES. 



For the best, six heads to be exhibted, $2. 

 For the second best do. do, $1. 



Time for Budding Fruit Trees. 



August has been generally considered the 

 best month for budding, but other months are 

 found to answer quite as well. Pear trees 

 that are not in rich ground should be budded 

 earlier than August, for tiiey often cease to 

 extend their limbs in July, and when they 

 have stopped growing, the buds that we in- 

 sert, are not likely to live. 



The peach in nurseries continues to grow 

 to a late day, and when they are thrifty, Au- 

 gust is soon enough to insert buds. 



Some nurserymen prefer budding to graft- 

 ing apple trees ; and we must say we have 

 been most successful in budding. In graft- 

 ing if the scion does not live we lose the 

 stock, or we are obliged to wait for a sprout 

 to grow large enough to be operated upon. 

 In case of the failure of a bud in August, 

 the stock in which it was inserted may have 

 a graft in the spring, thus the nurseryman 



will stand a double chance of keeping his 

 rows full. 



The operation of budding is quite simple, 

 yet some of our young friends have never 

 seen it performed, and we will try to de- 

 scribe it, though it is a harder job than to 

 bud a stock. The bud should be cut from a 

 limb or twig of this year's growth; and a 

 slip of bark should be taken from the twig 

 with the bud one inch in length — half of 

 this slip above and half of it below the bud. 

 A little of the sap wood of the twig will 

 naturally be sliced off, and will adhere to 

 the bark enclosing the bud. It has been 

 customary to peel out this sap wood and 

 leave nothing but clear bark with the bud, 

 but unless this is done with caution, a vital 

 part of the eye of the bud will come*out 

 also and spoil the bud. Some, in slicing off 

 the bud take but little of the sap wood from 

 the twig, and they let that remain. 



As soon as the bud is prepared take a 

 sharp penknife and cut a perpendicular slit 

 in the stock one inch long, and as near the 

 ground as you can with convenience. You 

 must cut quite through the bark; at the bot- 

 tom of this slit cut another at right angles, 

 or directly across the stock, so deep as to 

 enable you to raise the batk or peel it up 

 enough to admit the bud under it; this may 

 be done with a smooth bit of iron or ivory; 

 the bud should then be run under the bark 

 and should be slid up as far as the slit will 



"rait; if the bark of the bud is too long for 

 the slit it should be cut off square with the 

 cross cut in the stock, and the bud should 

 be kept in place by tying some matting 

 around the stock above and below the bud. 

 Some choose the month of June for bud- 

 ding; in this case the bud will become a 

 limb in the same season. When the buds 

 are inserted early, care must be taken to 

 cut the matting or to loosen it on 'finding 

 that the stock wants more room. — Mussa- 

 chusetts Ploughman. 



For the Farmers' Cabinet. 

 Prevention of Rot in the Potatoe Crop. 



Mr. Editor, — Dear Sir: The general 

 failure of the potatoe crop in old Ireland, 

 and the partial failure for several seasons of 

 this most valuable esculent in this country, 

 has induced me to hand you a brief detail 

 of my method of successfully cultivating this 

 root. 



The first season the rot made its appear- 

 ance in this country, I had about my usual 

 breadth in potatoes, a small portion of which 

 was in two low spots of land, and m these 

 spots, on taking out my crop, I found an 



