88 POPULAR SCIENCE MONTHLY. 



to change the character of some of the essences. A still more im- 

 portant objection is that the vapor may bring over some undesirable 

 constituents existing in the plant, or by its action on some of the 

 constituents may produce new substances in no way allied to the 

 perfume. Impurities produced in this way communicate to the 

 newly distilled essence what may be called the taste of the retort. 

 Such inconveniences, of relatively little account in the coarse ex- 

 tracts, are very important in the more delicate distillations. 



A process used at Grasse for conserving the more delicate quali- 

 ties of the perfumes, and which constitutes a method original to the 

 Maritime Alps, consists in the employment of grease for the com- 

 position of perfumed pomades. A grease of suitable consistence 

 which will not become rancid is obtained by preparing a mixture of 

 lard and beef fat and subjecting it to thorough refining processes. 

 The perfume is incorporated with this base by a process of warm 

 maceration, or by absorption. 



For maceration the fat is melted in the marine bath and brought 

 to a temperature of 60 or 70 C, as measured by the skill of the 

 attendants rather than by the thermometer; the rose leaves, or 

 whatever is to be treated, are introduced, thoroughly immersed; 

 after a few hours the mixture is passed through strainers and 

 drained, so as to separate the grease from the flowers as completely 

 as possible. What grease remains on the rose leaves is washed off 

 with warm water. The process is repeated with the same grease 

 and with other flowers, and so goes on for fifteen or twenty days, 

 according to the quality of the pomade that is desired. Some of 

 this pomade is consumed as it stands; but by far the greater part 

 is used for making extracts, or alcoholic infusions of the perfume. 

 For this purpose the pomade is introduced with a suitable quantity 

 of alcohol into a shaker, consisting of a cylinder in which a screw 

 beater is kept going all the time. The mixture is thus actively 

 beaten up, and, as the perfume has more affinity for the alcohol 

 than for the grease, the grease in time becomes nearly inodorous, 

 and the alcohol is charged with the greater part of the perfume. 

 The grease is then sent to the soap maker, for it is not fit to be used 

 again for a pomade. 



The question may be asked, and has been asked, Why use the 

 intervention of grease in the process of extraction? Why not apply 

 alcohol or some substance of similar powers directly? Chemists 

 have offered ether, sulphide of carbon, chloride of methyl, chloro- 

 form, and other scientifically prepared solvents, to have them re- 

 jected, and have blamed the manufacturers of Grasse for adhering 

 to barbarous processes, and for their inability to escape their anti- 

 quated routine. A more scientific spirit would lead them to inquire 



