252 



NEW ENGLAND FARMER. 



This gouge is run between the wood and bark, and 

 the wood is taken out very neatly, and in less time 

 than in any other way; and it is sure to save the 

 root of the bud. In cutting out the wood, the gouge 

 should be pressed gently against the wood. 



In cuttincr the bud from the scion, insert the knife 

 below the bud, and take a thin slip of wood, espe- 

 cially if it is allowed to remain in. After slipping 

 in the bud, cut off the bark at the cross cat, as in 

 Fig. 5. Wind the band closely and neatly around 

 every part of the cut bark of the stock, barely leav- 

 ing out the bud, as appears in Fig. 6. As the stock 

 grows, so that the band binds too tightly, loosen 

 the band and retie, and let it remain till the bud is 

 firmly united with the stock. 



Various materials are used for bands in tieing in 

 buds. Most nurserymen select a nice, soft Russia 

 mat, which is a good and cheap material, and easi- 

 ly procured. The matting should be wet, and used 

 moist. The inner bark of Bass Wood or American 

 Linden is excellent for bands, if it be soaked sev- 

 eral weeks in water, to soften its fibre; otherwise 

 it is too hard and stiff. A great deal depends on 

 putting on the bands; if they are only a little too 

 loose, the buds will fail, and this is very liable to 

 occur under some circumstances. For instance, if 

 the bud is from a small stick or scion, and the wood 

 is taken out, and it is set in a rather large stock, 

 there will be a vacant place between the bud and 

 stock, unless it be tied pretty close, so as to press 

 the bud down to the stock. 



As to the time for budding, no definite rules can 

 be given. It varies with the season, the weather, 

 the age and growth of stocks, the ripeness of the 

 buds, and other circumstances. We generally com- 

 mence about the first of August. First with the 

 plum, then the cherry, pear, quince and apple, ex- 

 tending nearly, and sometimes quite through the 

 month. If the cherries are young and vigorous, 

 they may be omitted till the middle or latter part 

 of the month. 



We have budded cherries the first of August, as 

 they appeared to be nearly done growing; after- 

 wards the weather became wet and warm, and the 

 trees grew more than one-half, and threw out the 

 buds, and we budded again the first week in Sep- 

 tember with success. Some seasons we have known 

 the pear to stop growing so early that it could not 

 be budded after the first week in August. Ajjain, 

 we have known it budded the first week in Septem- 

 ber, and notwithstanding it was so late, the buds 

 started, and grew an inch or two that fall, and the 

 winter killed them. So no precise rule can be giv- 

 en for future action, any more than for the time to 

 cut hay or grain. The better way is to begin in 

 season, and if there be a failure from budding too 

 early, repeat it. It is necessary that the stocks 

 should continue to grow about ten days after the 

 buds are set, that tliey may unite firmly with the 

 s'' >"ks. 



Peaches should generally be budded from the 

 first to the middle of September. Old trees early 

 in the month, but young trees from seed this sea- 

 son, about the middle. Generally vigorous trees of 

 two years' growth should be budded about from the 

 5th to the 12th of September. We have succeeded 

 in budding peaches as late as the 20th of Septem- 

 ber, but warm wet weather succeeded. If the 

 weather had been cool and dry, they would have 

 failed. 



A great deal of care is necessary to see that the 

 bands do not bind too closely, and to see that they 

 are properly retied after being loosened. Gener- 

 ally the bands need to be loosened in about ten days 

 after budding; sometimes earlier, and frequently 

 later. In some cases the bands will not bind too 

 tightly during the season. 



ORIGIN OF HOUGHTON'S GOOSEBSR- 

 RY. 



As this gooseberry is worth far more than any 

 other variety, and probably worth more for general 

 cultivation than the thousand imported kinds of 

 boasted excellence, its origm is of some importance, 

 particularly as the good people of Lynn are pleased 

 to claim its origin, and Mr. Abel Houghton, who 

 raised it from seed, may justly indulge an honest 

 pride in conferring so great a favor on the commu- 

 nity. 



Our attention is called to this subject, from see- 

 ing an article in a late number of the Boston Culti- 

 vator, slating thatPIoughton's Seedling Gooseberry 

 originated in Salem; and though the article ap- 

 pears as editorial, we recognized that it was a copy 

 from a western work. 



Now if the editor of the Cultivator would con- 

 sult some of the back volumes of that paper, or the 

 American Fruit Book, instead of works published 

 in a distant part of the country, on the subject of 

 New England fruits, he might furnish his readers 

 with a correct history of this gooseberry — might 

 instruct with facts, instead of misleading by error 

 — and do justice to all concerned. As this fruit is 

 a favorite with us, we feel interested in having 

 its history truly chronicled. 



For the New England Farmer. 



TO PROTECT TREES FROM MICE. 



Mr. Editor: — I noticed in a back No. of the Far- 

 mer a communication on coal tar to prevent mice 

 from destroying fruit trees in the winter season. As 

 the writer of that article did not approve of coal tar, 

 I will give my method in protecting trees from mice. 

 I take sheet lead or tea chest lead (which can be 

 bought for a nominal price) and cut it into strips eight 

 inches wide and sufficient length the other way to 

 go around the tree once and a half or twice; then 

 wrap it around the tree lightly and it will stay with- 

 out any further trouble. It can be taken off' in the 

 spring and laid away for subsequent years. I have 

 tried the above method with entire success. 



L. W. Stow. 

 Nfir TJnvfn. Vt . Jvlv ^e,fh. 185). 



