1848. 



GENESEE FARMER. 



Ill 



that depends entirely on the taste or purpose of 

 the proprietor. Some will prefer more ap|)les, 

 some pears, others peaches, &c., as their partial- 

 ities happen to run. As a general thing, how- 

 ever, in a garden apples should be admitted spar- 

 ingly, and these should invariably be on paradise 

 stocks, so that they can be kept in the form of 

 dwarf or bushes, 5 or 6 feet apart. The rarest 

 and finest sorts only should be grown, as the 

 common varieties can always be bought chea]) 

 from the orchards. The pears sliould be mostly 

 on quince stocks, grown as pyramids, branched 

 from within 6 inches of the ground. They can 

 be planted 6 or 8 feet apart. If trees could be 

 had at the nurseries properly trained they might 

 be safely removed at a bearing age ; but as these 

 can seldom be had of good form the best and 

 most economical way is to procure good yearling 

 trees, or at most two years from the bud, and if 

 they are not in the proper shape they are young 

 enough to be moulded by the knife into a suita- 

 ble form. If some choice varieties are desired 

 that do not succeed well on the quince they can 

 either be double worked or taken on the pear 

 stock, which by root pruning and disbudding in 

 summer may be kept in the small pyramid form, 

 as those on the quince, or they may be grown as 

 half standards, branching at 3 or 4 feet from the 

 ground. Tlie cherries should be on the prunus 

 mahaleh stock, which answers the same porpose 

 as the quince does for the pear, produces a dwarf 

 and prolific habit. They should be branched 

 from the ground and take a bushy or pyramidal 

 form. They are very easily protected from 

 birds. Yearling trees are the best, as they trans- 

 plant easily and safely and admit of training in 

 proper form. They may be planted 6 or 8 feet 

 apart in the borders. Peaches on plum stocks 

 are more dwarfish than on the peach ; but the 

 peach on its own stock may be easily kept in 

 the required size and form by early and careful 

 attention. They should branch near the ground 

 and take the form of a bush. The trees should 

 not be more than one year from the bud. They 

 can then be cut back and made to branch low 

 and take the desired shape. They may be plant- 

 ed about 9 feet apart. Plums, apricots, and nec- 

 tarines should be grown in the same form. 



Standard trees are not appropriate for gardens, 

 as they shade a large surface of ground, are tar- 

 dy in bearing, and admit of little variety. The 

 dwarf trees convey, at first sight, the idea of 

 fitness to their position. They are within the 

 reach of the cultivator, the fruit is less exposed 

 to the winds, and is easily gathered. The trees 

 are at all times easily protected against untimely 

 frosts, and the roots being in a small circumfer- 

 ence are easily fed with such nourishment as 

 they may stand in need of. Nearly all the fruits 

 grown in the way suggested will produce fruit ' 

 the second and third year after planting. The 

 trees of all kinds should be healthy and vigorous. 



and purchased from a correct and responsible 

 source, as nothing is more grievous than to 

 have fruits prove false to their names. 



All the trees of each fruit should, if possible, 

 be planted together — that is, next to each other; 

 giving, if there be any difl^erence in the soil, the 

 lighte t and dryest to the cherry, peach, apricot, 

 and nectarine, and the heaviest to the apple, pear, 

 and plum. 



6. Flunlbig. — The trees in ranges along the 

 borders of walks should be so far from the walk 

 as not to encroach upon it. The spaces should 

 be measured off" and the holes dug ; let them be 

 large enough to admit the roots all spread out in 

 their natural position. 



Pears on quince stocks, apples on paradise, 

 and cherries on the St. Lucie or mahaleb, should, 

 if budded low as they ought, be planted so deep 

 that the point of union between stock and graft 

 will be even with or rather below the surface. 

 When the planting is done, or as it progresses, 

 note in. your record or register the name of every 

 variety, commencing at the end of the row ; if 

 any happen to stand not in a row, describe the 

 particular place so that it will be understood, and 

 then labels will be superfluous and may be re- 

 moved, as they are apt to be forgotten till they 

 cut the body or branch of the tree. 



Gardens being usually somewhat sheltered 

 from winds , and the trees usally being of small- 

 er size, staking is less necessary than in exposed 

 orchards. Where there is the least danger, 

 however, of the trees being moved by the winds, 

 a neat .stake should be set with the tree, so as 

 not to injure the roots. Fasten the tree to it, 

 say half way from the ground, having a band of 

 straw or matting tied around the tree to keep it 

 from being chafed on the stake. 



The following is a Select List of Fruits of 

 the highest ciiaracter in nearly every part of the 

 country, and from which the amateur may select 

 without the slighest apprehension of having a 

 poor one, or indeed any thing short o{ first rate. 



Apples — Summer — Ripening from August till 

 October. — Early Harvest, Early Strawberry, 

 Early Sweet Bough, Red Astracan, Early Joe, 

 Dutchess of Oldenburg. 



Autumn Apples — Ripening from September 

 till November. — Hawley, Dyer, Gravenstein, 

 St. Lawrence, Fall Pippin. 



Winter Apples — from November till June. — 

 Norton's Melon, Golden Reinette, Canada Rein- 

 ette. Non-such or Red Canada, Seek no Farther, 

 Esopus Spitzenberg, Swaar, Ladies' Sweeting, 

 and Northern Spy. [The last has been served 

 up on the tables of the Eagle Hotel in this city 

 in beautiful condition on the the 4th of July.] 



Pears — Summer — from August till October. 

 — Madelaine, Osband's Summer, [Summer Ver- 

 frnliev,'] Bloodgood, Dearborn's Seedling, Sum- 

 mer Franc Real, Belle of Brussels, Bartlett. 



Autumn Pears— from 1st of October till De- 



