HORSE sp:nse. 213 



be improved. But too many of our would-be useful horses have been 

 "soured," made balky, contracting the pernicious habit of pulling on the 

 bit. and many other faults, by tiie use and abuse of the check-rein (of 

 any character) in trying to make high-headed horses of them from the 

 beginning of their harness experience. Natural style in harness is 

 nature's graceful curves, but man's devices for the purpose often fall far 

 short of the object attained. 



How can I prevent a horse from "bucking" when he is determined to 

 "buck" me off? 



Ans. The use of the persuader, is as applicable in saddle as harness 

 work, and can be handled from the back of the horse in taking up one 

 front foot, as when behind him; and the horse makes a "sorry" job of 

 bucking on three legs. Besides, he can be given the use of all his legs 

 at any instant, or deprived, as may be desired. 



What can I do to teach a horse to back? 



Ans. This is fully explained at Cut. No. 63. 



You spoke here of how to hitch a team on the prairie so they could 

 feed and could be found near where they were left without a post or 

 tether. How is it done? 



Ans. This is explained and illustrated in chapter XXX H, cut No. 70. 



How shall I manage a horse that is troublesome to shoe? 



Ans. This is represented and shown in chapter XXXII, cut No. "jz. 



How can I break my horse from pulling on the halter? 



Ans. See chapter XXX, cuts Nos. 60 and 61. 



What do you consider the best methods of handling the "Broncho," 

 from the beginning, for a useful and safe horse? 



Ans. We devoted considerable space to this subject, under the head- 

 ing of "Controlling the Actions of the Horse by His Tail," chapter 

 XXXI. By reading this matter carefully, and complying with the de- 

 tails, we believe you will succeed beyond your expectations; but don't 

 hurt him, if possible, under any circumstances, and remember that the 

 medium of the stomach is the most direct route to his affections. 



What is the best method of separating colts, at weaning time, from 

 their dams? 



Ans. As we have often said before, we prefer putting two together 

 in box stalls, for company for each other, but, if we had but one, we 

 would prefer to wean it beside the dam, by tying it in such a manner that 

 it could not get its mother's milk. 



What is the best feed for colts the first winter? 



Ans. We prefer to commence with weaning on skimmed cow's milk 

 (the separator preferred), by letting them go from eight to twelve hours 

 after taking from the dam, before offering them anything; then approach 

 them with a little warm sweetened skim-milk in a shallow pan, and watch 

 the opportunity to suddenly lift the pan, so as to immerse the colt's nose 

 into the milk, and take it away, letting the colt have a chance to taste 

 the milk on its lips, when it may be repeated, and, as the colt is thirsty, 

 it will generally take to drinking, when the trouble, ever after, is at an 

 end. In a few days we make an addition to its ration of milk. We give 



