BACTERIA IN CHEESE 255 



of the mold; but within the cheese the mold grows into the 

 cracks and air spaces, and into the holes punched by the needles, 

 in time permeating the whole. As the molds grow, they 

 develop a peculiarly peppery, piquant taste, which is character- 

 istic of the Roquefort cheese. Just before- the cheese is fully 

 ripe they taste bitter, but this taste disappears as the final flavor 

 develops. A good Roquefort cheese is only possible when there 

 is a luxuriant growth of these molds within the cheese, no 

 surface growth being allowed. It is interesting to note that 

 although the Stilton and Gorgonzola cheeses are ripened by the 

 same mold, the method of manufacture does not commonly in- 

 volve the artificial inoculation with molds, reliance being placed 

 upon the natural inoculation with mold spores from the air or 

 the dairy utensils. The molds grow, however, and produce a 

 similar flavor to that of Roquefort. The makers of these 

 cheeses sometimes punch them full of holes to stimulate mold 

 growth. In the Gorgonzola cheeses, especially, this punching is 

 not done till the cheeses are a month old, or more, and fre- 

 quently masses of bacteria are carried by the punching needles 

 into the holes from the surface. These may grow within the 

 cheeses, producing discolored areas which detract from the 

 quality of the cheese. 



Most of the Roquefort cheeses are made in South France, 

 or, at least, ripened there. The reason for this is that their 

 proper ripening requires a low temperature and high moisture 

 conditions, and in South France there are large, damp, lime- 

 stone caves, partly natural and partly artificial, where the 

 ripening can go on to perfection. These caves have a tempera- 

 ture of about 60 and not 40, as sometimes stated. Three 

 companies have obtained possession of these caves, and they 

 have in their hands practically all of the Roquefort business of 

 the world. Roquefort cheeses are sometimes made in other 

 places, but they are practically all sent to these companies for 

 ripening. 



