PRUNING. 57 



season, when the tree will have established itself firmly 

 in the soil, by getting a good root hold, and will then 

 be in a better position to answer to the knifa. It is 

 frequently seen that when trees are planted under any 

 adverse circumstances, and pruned close at the time of 

 planting, and especially when a dry season ensues, such 

 trees present the appearance of mere stakes, and the root 

 action will be much slower and much less through the 

 restriction at the top. It is better to err on the safe side ; 

 which is, I firmly believe, to wait until the tree has taken 

 hold of the soil and commenced its root action. 



Having so pruned the tree in the first place, as to form 

 a good foundation and a well-balanced head, the after 

 treatment required is very simple. Remove completely 

 all surplus branches. Keep the head well opened to 

 admit all the sun and air possible to ripen and perfect 

 the fruit, and also the very important, but much over- 

 looked, point, to allow of the proper ripening and 

 maturing of the wood and of the fruit buds. Remove any 

 surplus side growth, thereby encouraging the formation of 

 fruit spurs upon all the leading branches. In shortening 

 the main branches, always cut close behind an underneath 

 or outward pointing bud, and not to the top or inward 

 one. 



Standard pears and plums require very much the same 

 treatment as that described for apples. Cherries, how- 

 ever, should have the knife used very much more 

 sparingly, and after the first year or two require no 

 shortening and very little thinning. There is great 

 danger of gumming by the free use of the knife ; and, if 

 the branches are allowed to extend, they are soon covered 

 with fruit spurs, which, producing abundant crops, check 

 and regulate the superabundant wood. 



