BUDDING EXPLAINED. 



Where only a small number are to be budded, the operator 

 carries the wrappers, both over the left shoulder, and with th e 

 knife makes first a cross-cut 

 about two inches from the (X 



ground; then a longitudinal V 



Fig. *. 



Fig. 9. 



one on the north side, so as not 



to be injured by freezing and 



thawing in winter; at the same 



time raising the bark a little, as 



shown in Fig. 8. A bud-stick, 



Fig. 7, is then taken; with the 



knife a cut is made just through 



the bark about one-half inch 



above the bud, taking only a 



very thin portion of the wood. 



The length of the cut must be 



varied for the different kinds 



of trees. For the peach, the 



whole bud need not be much 



more than one-half of an inch 



long, while for the pear and 



cherry it should be at least one 



inch in length. 

 After the bud is cut, Fig. 9, the 



lower end is inserted under the 



raised bark of the stock and pressed down by means of the remain- 

 ing part of the leaf stem, Fig. 10. If the bark does not peel easily 



enough to be raised by the pressure upon the bud, the stock is not 



in the best condition for success; and it may be necessary to raise 



it by the use of the rounded portion of the blade of the knife. 



After the bud is in position, it is 

 tied by holding one end of the 

 band in the left hand, placing it 

 against the stock, and winding 

 the other end over the first, so as 

 to hold it while both hands are 

 employed to bind the bud smoothly 

 and firmly; winding first upward, 

 crossing above the bud, returning 

 and tying below the bud, as shown 

 in Fig. 11. The most important 

 point in tying is to bind the bark 

 down firmly and smoothly over 

 the bud. After the trees have 

 been budded a week or two, de- 

 pending upon the condition of the 

 weather, they should be examined, 

 and if the growth is such that the 

 bands are cutting into the stock so 

 10 Fltr n as to injure them, they should be 



