TIME AND MANNER OF PRUNING. 



77 



back all the .strong- shoots to three buds and removing entirely 

 all weak canes not needed to carry out the system. In the re- 

 newal system, those shoots that are to remain for fruiting next 

 season are shortened to a proper length, and the shoots from 

 wlii eh the new canes are to be grown are cut back to spurs. All 

 wood, not needed to carry out the system, is cut away. 



The best time for pruning is in the fall or winter. Pruning 

 after the sap begins to move in the spring, or after the middle of 

 March, cannot be recommended, although there is no evidence to 

 prove that the vines are injured by the " bleeding " that takes 

 place when pruned so late. 



The best implement for pruning is the common hand .pruning 

 , O, 



61. 



shears, of which there are many good patterns. The dotted lines 

 at a, Figs. 01 and 62, show where the cuts are to be made. 



PRUNING- OLD VINES. In many gardens there are to be found 

 old vines that have not been pruned for years, and the fruit is 

 small and almost worthless. The owner still neglects it because 

 he does not know how to take hold of the vine and put it into 

 shape. Such a vine, with a lictle care, may be made productive, 

 and can easily be brought under some system of pruning. The 

 first thing to do in the fall, is to cut, and cut, and cut away 

 until the vine consists of the necessary arms, branches or laterals 

 to allow a single one to each wire, stake, slat or other support 

 used. From these branches during the following summer will 

 come out numerous sprouts. Such of these as are needed to re- 



