84 THE PRACTICAL GARDEN -BOOK 



The red and white Currants bear mostly on two-year-old 

 or older wood. A succession of young shoots should be 

 allowed to grow to take the place of the old bearing wood. 

 Cut out the canes as they grow older. The partial shade 

 afforded by a young orchard suits the Currant well, and if 

 the ground is in good condition no bad results will follow to 

 the orchard, provided the Currants are removed before the 

 trees need the entire feeding space. 



A Currant patch should continue in good bearing for 10 

 to 20 years, if properly handled. One very important point 

 is to keep the old, weak canes cut out, and a succession of 

 two to four new ones coming from the root each year. For 

 home use, White Imperial and Moore's Euby are excellent. 

 Prince of Wales is a heavy bearer and excellent for cooking. 

 Wilder, Victoria, Cherry and White Grape are meritorious 

 varieties. 



To combat the Currant worm, spray thoroughly with 

 Paris green to kill the first brood, just as soon as holes can 

 be seen in the lower leaves usually before the plants are 

 in bloom. For the second brood, if it appear, spray with 

 white hellebore. For borers, cut out and burn the affected 

 canes. 



Cuttings. Cuttings are parts of plants which 

 are inserted in soil or water with the intention that they 

 shall grow and make new plants. They are of various kinds. 

 They may be classified, with reference to the age of the 

 wood or tissue, into two classes ; viz., those made from 

 perfectly hard or dormant wood (taken from the winter 

 twigs of trees and bushes), and those made from more or 

 less immature or growing wood. They may be classified 

 again in respect to the part of the plants from which they 

 are taken, as root Cuttings, tuber Cuttings (as the ordinary 

 "seed" planted for potatoes), stem Cuttings and leaf Cut- 

 tings. 



Dormant wood Cuttings are used for grapes, currants, 

 gooseberries, willows, poplars and many other kinds of soft- 



