RASPBERRY 187 



or 7 feet; the red varieties 3 feet apart, the rows 5 feet 

 apart. Spring setting is usually preferable. 



As with blackberries and dewberries, Raspberries bear 

 on last year's canes, and these canes bear but once. 

 Therefore cut out the old canes after fruiting, or before the 

 following spring, thus destroying such insects and fungi as 

 may have lodged on them. New caues should have grown 

 in the meantime, 3 to 6 to a hill. 



The first year after the plants are set the canes should 

 be pinched back when they reach the height of from 30 to 

 36 inches. If a very vigorous growth has been made the 

 first season two canes may be left for fruiting, but in the 

 case of weak growth only one cane should be allowed to 

 fruit. In case of low-growing varieties those that have 

 been pinched back short a mulch of straw or grass around 

 the plants at fruiting time will help to hold 

 the moisture, and also serve to keep the 

 fruits clean in case of heavy rains. A 

 Raspberry plantation will last three to five 

 years. The black varieties are propagated 

 by layers, the tip of a cane being laid in 

 the soil in midsummer; by fall the tip 

 will have taken root and may be separated. The red 

 varieties are propagated by suckers from the roots. In 

 nurseries both blacks and reds are often propagated by 

 means of root- cuttings. 



For red rust, pull out the plant, root and branch, and 

 burn it. Short rotations fruiting the plants only two or 

 three years and burning the old canes and trimmings, 

 will do much to keep Raspberry plantations healthy. Spray- 

 ing will have some effect in combating anthracnose. Rasp- 

 berries may be bent over to the ground so that the snow 

 will protect them, in severe climates. 



Varieties are always changing in favor. Good black- 

 caps are Gregg, Ohio, and Kansas. Good red and purple 

 sorts are Shaffer, Cuthbert, Loudon, and others. 



