SHRUBBERY 201 



quick -growing flowers may be scattered about the edges of 

 the mass. The larger Shrubs, like lilacs and syringas, may 

 be set about 4 feet apart; but the smaller ones should be 

 set about 2 feet apart if it is desired to secure an immediate 

 effect. If after a few years the mass becomes too crowded, 

 some of the specimens may be removed. Throw the Shrubs 

 into an irregular plantation, not in rows, and make the 

 inner edge of the mass more or less undulating and broken. 

 It is a good practice to mulch the plantation each fall with 

 light manure, leaf -mold or other material. Even though the 

 Shrubs are perfectly hardy, this mulch greatly improves the 

 land and promotes growth. After the Shrub borders have 

 become two or three years old, the drifting leaves of fall 

 will be caught therein and will be held as a mulch. It is 

 often advisable not to remove these leaves, but to allow 

 them to remain year after year, where they make a fine 

 covering of leaf-mold. When the Shrubs are first planted, 

 they are headed back one-half or more; but after they are 

 established they are not to be pruned, but allowed to take 

 their own way, and after a few years the outermost ones 

 will droop and meet the greensward. 



Good Shrubs are numerous. Some of the best are those 

 to be found in woods and along roadsides. They are hardy. 

 Of Shrubs which are generally adaptable for the North, the 

 following are excellent: 



Barberries. 



Box. 



Burning Bush, or Euonymus. 



Bush Honeysuckles. 



Bush Willows. 



Caryopteris, blooming in August and September, 



Cotoneasters. 



Desmodiums, or Lespedezas, blooming in fall. 



Dwarf Sumac. Bhus copallina. 



Elders. Native species are excellent. 



Exochorda, with profuse white bloom in spring. 



