1897. 



THE AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL. 



85 



vided with passage-ways through or above them to permit the 

 outer portions of the cluster from freezing or starving. 



For a colony to live in either a moist or cold atmosphere 

 is at the expense of its vitality. If by an upward current the 

 moisture is carried off, a correspondiug evil presents itself in 

 a lower temperature; and altho strong colonies may survive 

 these couditlons, fatalities will frequeutly occur among the 

 weaker ones. 



If we carefully consider the cause of moisture within the 

 hive, possibly we shall be able to prevent it. The law of dif- 

 fusion of gases in our atmosphere, also includes moisture 

 which is known as watery vapor. Its diffusion is clearly 

 manifest during damp weather, when it penetrates our homes, 

 causing doors and drawers to be much swollen. Cool surfaces 

 and cool currents of air cause its condensation ; conversely, 

 with a condition of warmth no moisture is visible, it beine 

 held in suspension. Within the hive, cold walls condense, 

 not only that which is produced by exhalations of the colony, 

 but by the general diffusion, bringing it from without. 



Inasmuch as cold surfaces and cold currents of air cause 

 condensation, the converse condition should prevent it. So, 

 by the application of packing on all sides, as well as top and 

 bottom, we largely overcome the surface condensation ; and 

 by a vestibule entrance, the currents of cold air are prevented. 

 I use from six to eight inches of sawdust in the tray covering 

 my hives, which not only prevents any upward current of air, 

 but thoroughly retains the warmth. As additional security I 

 use closed-end frames, which conserve the warmth of the col- 

 ony between each range of combs. 



With single-wall hives, the moisture must be carried off 

 by a slow upward current of air, otherwise the sides and 

 bottom-board will become saturated, compelling the colony to 

 endure a condition which is disastrous to its vitality. 



As to passage-ways through the combs, there is a differ- 

 ence of opinion. However, my experience leads me to con- 

 clude that they are unnecessary. It is true they afford an 

 opportunity for an outer portion of the cluster to reach an 

 adjacent inner comb-space, if the bees happen to be located 

 directly over the passage-way, and the weather is warm ; 

 otherwise they serve no purpose. 



It should be understood that the spherical form of the 

 cluster is maintained by the tendency of each bee to reach the 

 warmest locality. No knowledge of their location or condition 

 as to queenlessness or otherwise is brought into requsition — it 

 is simply a gravitating to the warmest locality, opposite an 

 inner and larger circle of bees occupying an adjacent comb- 

 space. 



During the average winter weather passage-ways through 

 the combs are of no avail, and the same is true of Hill's de- 

 vice, or passage-ways above the frames. Any space above the 

 frames is contrary to nature ; the bees invariably close all 

 openings at the top of the hive, thus preventing any escape of 

 warmth so necessary in cold weather. A colony to pass the 

 winter successfully should remain clustered between the same 

 combs tliey occupied in November until spring. When so 

 clustered each comb occupied should contain sufficient honey 

 for the entire period of confinement. This being advisable, 

 no passage-ways will be required, providing the proper tem- 

 perature is maintained. 



I am still an advocate for ample winter stores. No colony 

 should have less than 30 or 35 pounds. Let us bear in mind 

 that with all the necessary precaution as to warmth and pro- 

 tection against drafts of cold air, a deficiency of stores is 

 likely to cause disaster. 



Modern hives with brood-chambers equal to the laying 

 capacity of the queen, are considered best for obtaining sur- 

 plus honey. Such, however, are not the best for wintering — 

 the stores are usually insullicient. When all breeding is over 

 for the season, the central combs are often deficient in stores. 

 Here a good, practical feeder comes into requisition — one that 

 can be used during the cold nights of October — one that will 

 work successfully with thick syrup. Nothing is gained by 

 compelling the bees to evaporate a large amount of water. I 

 use about one quart of water to every 1-4 pounds of the best 

 confectioners' A sugar. When early feeding is practiced thin 

 syrup may be used ; but later, empty brood-combs will neces- 

 sitate further feeding. 



I have touched upon feeding because it is a necessity with 

 the limited comb surface of modern hives. With hives double 

 in size, or much larger than the laying capacity of the queen, 

 no feeding would be necessary in ordinary seasons. However, 

 such would not be adapted to the production of honey. 



L. A. AsriNWAi.L. 



T. F. Bingham — Why must the bees have so much honey ? 



Pres. Aspinwall — The bees often eat out the honey from 



the central combs, unless they are well filled, and then if the 



weather continues cold there is no opportunity of changing 

 over to other combs. In the spring the bees breed up faster 

 if there Is abundance of honey in the hive. They are like 

 human beings, if they have a good bank account they are not 

 afraid to launch out and do business. 



W. Z. Hutchinson — Did I understand you to say that you 

 used 14 pounds of sugar to one quart of water 1 Quinby says 

 5 pounds of sugar to one quart of water for making feed for 

 fall use. 



Pres. Aspinwall — Yes, I use 14 pounds of sugar (confec- 

 tioners' A) to one quart of water. 



Mr. Hutchinson — How thick a syrup does it make ? 



Pres. Aspinwall — So thick that when it cools on top it is 

 thick like candy. I feed it when slightly warm. It is fed in 

 a feeder that comes right over the cluster. And, by the way, 

 with such syrup as this, I don't care whether it is sealed or 

 not. There is no advantage in giving bees a lot of water to 

 evaporate. I feed until the bees will take no more. 



Mr. Bingham — If 20 pounds of food will bring a colony 

 through the winter, why give them more than that to keep 

 warm ? 



Pres. Aspinwall — I am not sure that they do keep it all 

 warm. 



Mr. Bingham — I prepared my bees for winter last fall by 

 furnishing each colony with 20 pounds of food, or rather, the 

 bees and food weighed 20 pounds. If a colony had more than 

 that amount it was taken away ; if less, it was given enough 

 to bring it up to 20 pounds. I expect that they will come 

 through all right. I think it is actually injurious, many times, 

 to have too much honey in the hive in winter. It is better to 

 give the bees enough to bring them through the winter, and 

 then feed them in the spring if any should need it. 



Pres. Aspinwall — I don't want to be bothered with feed- 

 ing bees in the spring. I wish to be able to prepare them for 

 winter, and then not have to open a hive again, or look after 

 them until the harvest approaches. 



Mr. Hutchinson — I used to weigh my bees in the fall, and 

 feed all of the colonies in which there was not enough food to 

 weigh 20 pounds. I never lost any from starvation. I have 

 weighed them when wintered in the cellar, and the average 

 consumption was about 9 pounds per colony. 



T. J. Fordyce — I winter my bees packt in planer shavings. 

 I have it as thick as 18 inches on top. Colonies with a large 

 entrance winter better than those with a small one. 



H. S. Wheeler — My experience is the same. 



Pres. Aspinwall — I am enabled to use a small entrance 

 because I have an ante-chamber that catches the dead bees. 



Mr. Bingham — My hive entrance in winter is only % of 

 an inch long, and high enough to allow a drone to be dragged 

 out. But my hive has a rim under it. The rim is K of an 

 inch high, and remains there the year round. The entrance 

 is above the rim, and thus it is not clogged with dead bees. I 

 once used a deeper rim, but the bees built comb beneath, and 

 I discarded it for the shallower rim. 



Mr. Fordyce — I have wintered bees very successfully In 

 the cellar. When brought out in the spring they were Just 

 about as heavy as when put in, in the fall. The stores were 

 usually basswood and willow-herb. 



Mr. Hutchinson — This matter of stores plays a very im- 

 portant part. The Wilkins sisters were very successful In 

 wintering bees, and I have always thought that the character 

 of the stores had much to do with their success. 



Mr. Bingham — Fifteen years ago, when we were all losing 

 bees, men living near these ladies lost bees, but they lost very 

 few. 



Mr. Hutchinson— If that is true, then their plan may be 

 of Interest. Each colony is packt in chaff on its summer 

 stand. The chaff is from four to six inches thick on the sides, 

 and perhaps six inches deep on top. Just over the brood-nest, 

 above the packing, in the cover, is an opening 8 or 10 inches 

 square. This is covered with wire-cloth to keep out the mice. 

 Over this is a roof that keeps out the storms. Great care is 

 taken that the entrances are kept free from snow. 



POOR EXTRACTED HONEY. 



Mr. Bingham called attention to some of the talk that 

 took place at the recent Chicago, or Illinois, convention, in 

 which bee-keepers were advised to pour off the thin honey or 

 water that rises on the top of candied honey, allow the rest to 

 "drain off" and then melt up the solid honey that is left, and 

 the result will be something very choice. Mr. Bingham de- 

 plored the fact that such talk as this should be indulged in 

 and be publisht, thus giving the impression that candied honey 

 is usually found in this condition. Only honey extracted be- 

 fore it is ripe, or that has been improperly treated, is to be 

 found in such a condition. We take a great deal of pains to 

 put up our extracted honey in fine shape, with fancy, gilt 



