210 



THE AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL. 



Apr. 8, 



feed, given inside of the hive, will save a colony from starva- 

 tion and death. It frequently happens that the dead bees will 

 become molded together in large lumps, and it is well to re- 

 move these putrid masses as early as it may safely be done. 

 Many of the dead bees may be removed through the entrance 

 by the use of a crooked wire or stick. This same advice holds 

 true with the bees in the cellar, tho it is well to use the utmost 

 care not to disturb or break the cluster of bees. Much heat 

 and vitality is thus lost. 



By the time this appears in print it will be time to take out 

 the cellar bees, selecting a nice, warm and sunshiny day, with 

 little or no wind. In the spring bees require large quantities 

 of water; it frequently happens, in early spring, that they are 

 compelled to go to to the creek or to some quiet, ice-covered 

 pond, and in filling themselves with the ice-cold water they 

 become so chilled that many fail to ever reach the hive. To 

 avoid this, I place a few wooden pails or dishes filled with 

 warai water at convenient places in the bee-yard ; putting in 

 a few wooden floats, that the bees may be enabled to keep on 

 a more or less " secure footing." Avoid tin or glass dishes, 

 as the slippery sides will bring about the destruction of many 

 a bee's life. 



If there be any snow yet upon the ground, do not fail to 

 scatter a little straw about — more particularly in the imme- 

 diate vicinity of the hives. 



Inasmuch as dampness within the hive is greatly detri- 

 mental to the comfort and welfare of the bees, particular care 

 should be taken that the hive-covers are tight and water- 

 proof. If the hives are far enough apart, to avoid danger of 

 blowing off, a shade-board well weighted down, will keep the 

 hive nice and dry. And this moves me to say that a shade- 

 board is an indispensable article in every well-regulated api- 

 ary. It is also important that hives be firmly and squarely 

 fastened to a base-support elevated some six or eight inches 

 from the damp and cold earth. A free air-space beneath is 

 preferable for evident reasons. 



If you can find the time, level up the apiary, marking out 

 the paths, etc. This work pays in more ways than one, and 

 should not long bo neglected. 



Arrangements for the coming profitable season should 

 now be completed ; have everything in readiness so that no 

 time may be lost when time becomes valuable in a pecuniary 

 sense. This is good management, and absolutely essential to 

 a proper measure of success. 



I spoke earlier in this article, of encouraging the bees in 

 early spring by feeding a little syrup. This must be done 

 with the utmost care. If a robber-bee gets even the smallest 

 taste, she will soon raise a disturbance in the apiary that will 

 be apt to try the temper. Indeed, I have known this to end 

 in the total extermination of a good, strong colony ; and to 

 have given the whole apiary a set-back that a month had 

 hardly cured. 



Again, if feeding is regularly continued for any length of 

 time, and then suddenly discontinued — before flowers begin to 

 yield — it is very apt to cause the bees to become discouraged, 

 and end in their tearing out and killing all brood that had 

 been started. So it is well to go at this with care and proper 

 caution. In many instances it will save a colony from starva- 

 tion, and is therefore a necessary evil, in all respects. 



A little rye-ttour in a sheltered, sunny nook will answer 

 for pollen, if that is slow in coming forth. Upon these little 

 things many of the larger things depend. 



Hottey-Vinegar Again — Questions Answered. 



BY C. P. DADANT. 



The following has been sent mo for reply in the American 

 Bee Journal : 



"Mr. C. p. Dadant — Dtar Sir : — I saw in the discussion 

 on making honey-vinegar at the bee-convention held in Chica- 

 go some time ago, Mr. York made the statement that you man- 

 ufactured it to some extent. I have a little dark honey I 

 would like to manufacture into vinegar and would like to get 

 your mode of operation. If you feel free to give it. What I 

 wish to know more especially, is, whether hard or soft water 

 may be used, kind and quantity of yeast per 40-gallon barrel, 

 how to clarify with isinglass, etc. — L. Jonks." 



Our method for making honey and wine vinegar was given 

 at length in the first number of the Bee Journal for this year. 



We believe that the kind of water used is immaterial. Wo 

 would, however, if practicable, use soft water In preference to 

 hard water; but the amount of mineral usually found in hard 

 water would not, in our opioiOQ, affect the making of the vin- 

 egar. 



We do not use any yeast, because we have at all times 

 found enough fermentable matter in the honey that we use, 

 especially if used in connection with grape-juice or the juice of 

 almost any kind of fruit. But yeast may be used if it is nec- 

 essary to start the fermentation at a season of the year when 

 nothing can be had that will start it. As we have never used 

 any yeast, we cannot give our own experience in regard to it. 

 By referring to authorities on beer-making we find that they 

 use about a pound of hop yeast to each barrel of liquid. This 

 proportion would evidently be applicable to vinegar ; since the 

 liquid has to pass through the same stages of fermentation as 

 beer does. Acetic fermentation can only follow the vinous, or 

 alcoholic, fermentation, and is only perfect In as much as the 

 other has been complete. The two may take place in the same 

 liquid at the same time ; but the vinegar thus made is not to 

 be compared with thoroughly fermected juice, as it is sure to 

 remain turbid for a long time, aad contains saccharine ele- 

 ments as well. It would, however, do, in this condition, for 

 sweet pickles, but such pickles could not be kept in an air-tight 

 vessel, as the fermentation, which would continue slowly, 

 would cause expansion and would burst the vessel. Let it 

 be remembered that the most important thing in inducing 

 fermentation in honey-water,or fruit-juice, is a proper temper- 

 ature. I quote from the Encyclopedia Britannica : 



"The range of temperature most favorable to this process 

 lies between '20^ and 24-' centigrade, or (iS- and 75^ Fahren- 

 heit. Even grape-juice does not ferment at temperatures ly- 

 ing too close to the freezing point, nor does it ferment at tem- 

 peratures exceeding a certain limit, which lies about 60^ cen- 

 tigrade, or 140^ Fahrenheit." 



I do not wish to be understood as criticizing the above, 

 from one of the most responsible encyclopedias in the world, 

 but I would say that we have seen the most active fermenta- 

 tion, with our must, at about blood heat. Much depends upon 

 the outside temperature. The higher it is, the lower may be 

 that of the fermenting liquid, and vice versa. In cold weather 

 we would want to heat our honey-water to 1203 or about. 



Let the reader bear in mind that nearly all sweets contain 

 elements of fermentation. We can quote the same authority 

 above named to prove that "cane-sugar, or honey, when added 

 to grape-juice, ferments with the sugar originally present in 

 the latter." 



Wine must, wine lees, or even a little beer, will usually be 

 sufficient to start a fermentation in honey-water at the proper 

 temperature. If plenty of air is given, the acetic fermenta- 

 tion will begin just as soon as the other is complete, and often 

 before. 



Remember that the stronger the liquid is, the stronger the 

 vinegar will be, altho there is a limit beyond which it would 

 be impossible for all the honey to transform itself. We would 

 place this limit at three pounds of honey per gallon of water, 

 more or less. 



Clarifying is a process that we have never needed, our cus- 

 tomers having never complained of the looks of our vinegar. 

 But if very clear vinegar is wanted, this process will be found 

 very useful : 



To be ready for clarification, vinegar must be made, that 

 is, it must have no more alcohol in it, or the continuation of 

 fermentation would again cloud It. First, rack it by drawing 

 it off the lees as carefully as possible. Then heat it carfully to 

 140^ to 175 , in order to destroy the vibrions (vibro aceti), of 

 which I have spoken in previous articles, and which could not 

 be precipitated until they are killed. After this, the vinegar 

 may be easily clarified. We would use the white of eggs in 

 preference to anything else ; because we know what they are. 

 Four eggs are sufficient for a barrel. Separate the white from 

 the yolk in the usual way, then beat the eggs with about a 

 quart of water, adding a little salt, and pour this preparation 

 into the barrel of vinegar. Enough must have been removed 

 from the barrel to enable the operator to shake, or stir, the 

 liquid, so as to mix the eggs thoroughly with the vinegar. The 

 best way is to mix with a stick that will spread it evenly in 

 liquid. Let it stand 10 or 12 days, then draw it off the sedi- 

 ment. 



The egg acts exactly as the Isinglass, or fish-glue. The 

 gelatin contained in it is coagulated by the action of the for- 

 eign substances, and forms a net-work which is slowly precip- 

 itated to the bottom, dragging along with it the impurities 

 contained in the liquid. 



If isinglass is used, according to the " Maison Rustique," 

 which has long been an authority for us, the quantity should 

 be about an ounce for a barrel of 4.0 to 50 gallons. 



Should there be any point not thoroughly ventilated in 

 this vinegar question, we will ask the readers to bring it for- 

 ward while the matter Is fresh in the minds of the subscribers. 



Hancock Co., 111. 



