189) 



THE AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL. 



549 



bee-zinc. Not only that, but the dead drones and other refnso 

 too big to be pulled through the zinc are carried In the upper 

 part of tbe trap, and do not clog the entrance. The followltg 

 Illustration (No. 1) makes that construction clear: 



\ol 



hii/L 



A few years ago, I made some experiments on the best 

 shape to adopt for cone escapes. The shape now used by the 

 makers is the best. A shape too narrow at the base Induces 

 the bees to go back when they begin to be squeezed. The 

 opening must be sufficient to allow the bees to carry a dead 

 drone through without getting it stuck at the apex. 



As to the length of the cone, it must be sufficient so that 

 the cone is not covered. Whenever the top of the cone is 

 covered with bees, the exit is stopt, and quite a number of 

 worker-bees or drones will go back through the cone. If the 

 cone is long enough, only a few worker-bees or drones can 

 go back through it. That, however, depends upon the cir- 

 cumstances. As a rule, the drones will wear themselves to 

 death before finding the way back. The worker-tees or 

 queens, when finding themselves imprisoned, will hunt up an 

 escape everywhere, and eventually go back. 



A cone made out of a cut piece of cloth, sewed together 

 with thin wire, will prevent going back better than one 

 puncht out, especially if the edge is left ragged. (See No. 2.) 



Bees or drones inside of the trap or the confined space 

 will more or less run over the cone. Some will go on the edge 

 of the escape-hole if it is smooth, and then go either back on 

 the outside of the cone or sometimes inside of the hole. But 



when the edge is ragged, they will not stand on it, and the 

 chances of going back are then greatly lessened, unless, of 

 course, the cone should be completely covered. 



I have written considerably on the use of queen-traps, 

 etc., to prevent swarming, and I Just discovered that I had 

 completely forgotten to say that it is necessary to cut out all 

 the drone-comb possible, and thus reduce the number of 

 drones, otherwise they would be so numerous that they would 

 obstruct the traps and entrances completely. 



I have seen reports stating that the Porter escapes failed 



to clear the supers. I don't know what was the trouble, but I 

 know what has been the trouble with mine. If the escape 

 board Is placed directly on the brood-nest, the bees will more 

 or less cluster under it, and prevent the others from coming 

 out of the supers. Worse than that, some will attempt to go 

 back Into the supers, and get stuck between the springs and 

 the walls of the escape, and thus shut up the whole thing 

 (See No. 3). 



I have sometimes thought that a construction like No. 4 

 would be better. At any rate, the present escape usually 

 works well with me, by putting a super of empty sections be- 

 tween the escape-board and the brood-nest, preventing the 

 congregating of bees on the escape. 



A good deal has been said against a bee-keeper making 

 his own foundation. So far as section foundation is con- 

 cerned, it would be impossible for an ordinary bee-keeper to 

 make it as good as the foundation-makers, and none but the 

 very best should be used. But with brood foundation for one's 

 personal use, the case is altogether different, and It would be 



in the majority of cases a profit for the bee-keeper to use at 

 least his own wax. After all is counted, the wax sold will not 

 net much more than 20 cents per pound to the bee-keeper, 

 while his foundation, freight, etc., included, will run to 50 or 

 60 cents per pound. And if the bee-keeper has some spare 

 time in the winter evenings, or rainy days, he might as well 

 put it in that way and save the difference. 



Concerning the wiring of frames, I never succeeded in 

 cutting the wire first. Perhaps it is on account of my natural 

 awkwardness. I wire from the spool. I have a wiring-frame 

 fixt conveniently, and built like No. 5. The dotted lines show 

 where the brood-frame to be wired is placed. B B are merely 

 nails. A A are hooks like this—"] ~\ — to hold the brood- 

 frame. C (No. 6) is a third hook made so as to revolve, and 

 hold the brood-frame after It is pusht under the hooks, A A. 



I first fasten the wire to the proper nail in the frame, and 

 then holding the spool all the time in the left hand, pass the 

 wire over the hookt nails where wanted with the aid of the 

 right hand fingers. No. 7, I think, will explain itself. The 

 spool stays in my hand from beginning to end, all the other 

 movements being made with the other hand. 



As to fastening the foundation to the wires, if a very 

 great number was needed, it would probably be better to get 

 an electric apparatus. But for a small number the lamp pro- 

 cess invented by Dr. C. C. Miller is best. In order to facili- 

 tate the operation, I have a cord, C, hung to the ceiling of the 

 room, upon which one end of the frame rests, the other end 



being held by one hand. (See No. 8.) I operate it In a rather 

 dark room so as to see the wire and the light through the 

 foundation. Move the frame so as to follow the wire, sliding 



