^ERICA.^ 



Migratory Bee- Keeping In the South. 



BY A. F. BROWN. 



I am askt by the editor to give a few items on the above 

 subject, touching especially upon the small details connected 

 with such line — those brought out in the everyday life of one 

 following the production of paying crops of honey by moving 



the colonies from place to place as seasons and blossoms 

 offer inducements. 



The subject is well worthy the attention and careful con- 

 sideration of every thoughtful honey-producer, especially to 

 those who live in localities that are more or less uncertain, 

 and at the same time are within reach by a short move of 

 some locality that furnishes a surplus from some other source, 

 or at a different season of the year than at the home location. 



My experience in migratory bee-keeping covers about five 

 years" active work in moving from 150 to 250 colonies, three 

 or four times each year, and covering distances of from 20 to 

 200 miles at each move. Most of my moves were of distances 

 of 50 to loO miles. 



In this State (Florida) there are several classes of soils, 

 the timber growth and flora of each being quite distinct. In 

 some the surplus honey-flow comes early in the spring, in 

 others it may be a couple of months later, or at midsummer, 

 and still others in the fall or midwinter, consequently to one 

 informed on the localities it becomes quite apparent that by 

 being in position to move from one locality to another makes 

 the success of securing a crop just so much more sure. 



With the exception of a very few short moves, I have used 

 the railroads, and places accessible by water transportation, 

 for all of my movlngs. In going long distances I prefer the 

 railroad, for the saving of time, as well as expenses. For dis- 

 tances under 23 miles I have found teams the most satis- 

 factory. Transportation by water on boats disturbs the bees 

 the least of all, yet the actual gain therefrom is small. 



After the colonies are once properly packt and ready for a 

 move, the greatest point of success lies in getting tfwm to their 

 deslinatioii and opened out for a "flifiht" at the carliestmoment 

 possible. In my experience I have found colonies to stand 

 three or four days' bumping and jolting over roads and rail- 

 roads better than they withstand a week's confinement on 

 board a " lighter " towed by a steam tug-boat. I find it is the 



long confinement that tells on the xntalUy of the bees. Colo- 

 nies given plenty of room, plenty of veitlllatlon, and space to 

 cluster off from (and away from) the combs of brood, with 

 ample provision of honey and water, will stand transportation 

 during our hottest weather by hauling with teams or on rail- 

 roads, providing you do not keep them confined more than 

 four or five days. I endeavor to accomplish my moves in a 

 space not exceeding three days' confinement for the bees, and 

 only once have I lost any number of colonies. In fact, I sel- 

 dom lose any colonies. A few old bees in nearly all colonies 

 will die, but I think it is only about the actual number that 

 die each day when in their normal condition. 



Covering about 20 moves in five years, I have never kept 

 bees more than three or four months at a time in one locality, 

 generally about two months, and I was off for some other pas- 

 ture, frequently 150 or 200 miles distant. 



When I first commenced moving bees, I knew very little 

 of the requirements for success. My first heavy losses were 

 from loss of unsealed brood. To overcome this I found rvater 

 almost an absolute necessity. Give each colony two combs 

 (about two quarts) of water placed next the sides of the hive, 

 and the loss of brood will be greatly lessened. To fill the 

 combs with water, lay them In the bottom of a tub or barrel 

 (barrel is best), and pour water from a dipper held three feet 

 above. When one side is full turn it over and fill the reverse 

 side. One Langstroth frame will hold about a quart of water. 



Ample ventilation is another big item in successful mov- 

 ing of bees. I find a rim three inches deep, the same size as 

 hive, covered with wire-cloth, the proper thing. Put one of 

 these on the bottom aud one on the top, and securely fasten. 

 I have tried many kinds of fastenings, and find common place 

 laths cut the right length to reach from the bottom screen to 

 the top one, four to each hive, one nailed at each corner, is 

 the simplest and best — the most secure method of fastening 

 screens and hive bodies solid. 



In the front end of half of the screens have a %-inch hole 

 bored. This allows an entrance for the bees, and you can put 

 on the screens several days in advance of the day of moving, 

 and when all is ready to move, a cork or plug fastens the en- 

 trance-hole. 



Frames should be securely fastened in the hives, so they 

 will not slide together or swing. As I use, and have used for 

 years, the Hoffman style of frame, which is, as most are 

 aware, self-spacing, I have no bother about this item. 



In the few instances when I have had occasion to move 

 colonies in loose-hanging-frame hives, I have fastened them 

 securely by means of two small slats nailed one at each end 

 ou top of the end-bars down through aud into the ends of the 

 hive, then tip the hive up on its end, and stuff old newspapers 

 in the hee-space between the end of the frames and the end of 

 the hive. This fastens them securely. 



If colonies have more than 20 or 25 pounds of honey in 



