244 



AMERICAN BEE JOURNAL 



July 



robbers will have to go through their cluster 

 to get to it. 



(c) If you use a very small nail, you may 

 make as many holes as you please. The 

 honey or syrup will not flow too fast, because 

 the atmospheric pressure keeps it in. Pin 

 holes would be sufficient. 



(d) You will need to use your ingenuity. 

 If you have a large hole at the top of the box 

 hive and use a small feeder, it may do to 

 feed on top. Or you might use a Thalc feeder 

 and feed at the bottom. I would not like to 

 turn a box hive bottom up, for it would 

 change the location of the entrance and be- 

 wilder them enough that they might be 

 robbed. 



(e) Pollen is of half a do-'n or more differ- 

 ent colors, from white to dark brown, depend- 

 ing upon the flowers from which it was gath- 

 ered. The bees sometimes fill the cells with 

 it and sometimes put it only at the bottom, 

 and even store honey on top of it. 



f erring them to movable frames in the usual 

 way. Trapping the bees as they fly out would 

 do no good. Having no queen with them 

 they would die. 



The next best way is to force the swarm to 

 leave, with the queen, by the use of smoke and 

 drumming. Make a hole above the probable 

 location of the brood-nest. We take it for 

 granted that their present opening is below 

 the swarm. There must be one hole below 

 and one above. Then by driving a lot of 

 smoke at the lower hole and pounding on 

 the clapboards, you will drive them out, queen 

 and all. Do this on a warm day, about the 

 middle of the day. The objection to this 

 method is that the abandoned brood will die 

 in the wall and will cause more or less bad 

 odor. 



the clover crop. Remember that it takes 35 

 days from the time the egg is laid till the 

 worker hatching from that egg becomes an 

 active field worker. If you divide, you had 

 best buy queens to use in your divisions as 

 you will gain at least 10 days. We cer- 

 tainly prefer dividing to natural swarming. 

 But the latter cannot always be controlled. 



Bees Between Walls 



How can I save some bees that are between 

 the plastered walls and the clapboards on the 

 outside of an old house? The bees enter in 

 an opening in the side of the house. It is a 

 small hole, about 2'/, inches in diameter. Is 

 there a way of making a trap to catch the bees 

 as they fly out to the field in the daytime? 

 I don't wish to tear the boards off the build- 

 ing. CONNECTICUT. 



Answer. — Removing the clapboards would be 

 by far the best method of procedure. With a 

 good bee smoker, first give the bees a puff at 

 the entrance, keeping an eye to prevent them 

 rushing out. Then remove the clapboards 

 carefully. A good carpenter with a nail puller 

 could remove them without much, if any, dam- 

 age. When the combs are uncovered it 

 would be easy to force the bees into some 

 sort of a box and remove the combs, trans- 



Moving — Dividing 



I have 10 stands of bees which I set out of 

 the cellar March 30, all wintered in first-class 

 shape. I had 13 stands last year that made 

 me $275 at 80c per pound. Sold it all in my 

 home town and could have sold a thousand 

 pounds more if I had had it. 



1. I want to move my bees a mile and a half 

 this spring. Who will I write to to get a 

 permit? Or will it be necessary for such a 

 short distance? 



8. I want to divide my bees for increase 

 this spring so that they will build up for clo- 

 ver, as clover is our first heavy crop here. 

 When is the best time to do this, or would you 

 let them swarm? WISCONSIN. 



Answers. — 1. I do not believe it necessary 

 to get a permit to move your bees that dis- 

 tance or out of the county. The only pur- 

 pose of laws on moving bees is to prevent the 

 spread of disease, and your intended removal 

 will not cause it. Besides, your success indi- 

 cates that you already have healthy colonies. 



2. You will have to divide very early in 

 order to get your colonies strong enough for 



Settling a Swarm 



Please tell me how to make a swarm settle 

 down when flying in air. WISCONSIN. 



Answer. — A first swarm always settles be- 

 fore flying away to a new home. Secondary 

 swarms sometimes fail to do so. I have 

 often tried to stop a runaway swarm, and I 

 never succeeded, when they were in full 

 flight. Noise never does any good. Perhaps 

 a stream of water from a spraying hose would 

 succeed. But who has such a thing ready? 

 You may help them to select a spot to settle 

 by holding up. on a pole, an old comb. 



Ants 



Please tell me in your Journal how I can 

 keep ants from bothering bees, as I have 

 trouble through the summer with them? 



TENNESSEE. 



Answer. — The best way is to find their nest, 

 pour a little gasoline into it and set fire to it. 

 If they nest above the bees on top of the 

 brood-chamber, you can scare them away with 

 a little powdered sulphur, or dry ashes, or salt. 

 Ashes, in a place where they won't get wet, 

 will disgust the ants, especially if they are 

 fine wood ashes. Sometimes a little coal oil 

 rubbed about the places where they congre- 

 gate compels them to move. If you use gaso- 

 line as mentioned, you must be very careful 

 not to have the can within reach when you 

 strike the match. 



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