TRUSSING POULTRY. 95 



carcases, upon which heavy weights are placed, and the 

 whole are left to grow cold and " set " ; they are put in the 

 trough when quite warm. In this way the " shape " is 

 attained so desired in Leadenhall Market. Of late, however, 

 there has been some tendency towards dealing with the 

 very finest birds individually, shaping them in cloths, more 

 in the French way. 



Dead poultry are always exhibited " trussed, but not 

 drawn," and should be prepared with absolute simplicity, 

 but with the utmost neatness. Such tricks as gilding the 

 comb and legs (which we have actually seen done) only 

 entail defeat. Success rather depends, if the judge knows 

 his business, upon a breast and back really covered with 

 meat, evenly laid on ; a nice, delicate, well-finished skin ; 

 and not too great a size of bone compared with the size of 

 the fowl. The " trussing " cannot be too simple ; as much 

 as will keep the hocks, backs, and the wings in shape, is all 

 that should be attempted ; and this is easily accomplished ii 

 the bird has been moulded into shape, and allowed to " set " 

 cold in the French manner. Actual trussing for the spit is 

 not the business of the raiser, since it involves piercing 

 the skin and flesh, and such wounds promote decomposition. 

 This process should, therefore, be deferred till the fowl is on 

 the eve of consumption ; moreover, the precise method 

 differs in different localities, and according to whether the 

 bird is to be roasted or boiled. 



With respect to old fowls, in the market they are an 

 abomination ; but at home it is often needful to use them. 

 If so, let them be gently boiled or simmered, nearly an hour 

 for each year of their age, after which they can be roasted if 

 preferred. Unless very aged, they will then be tolerable 

 eating. Another plan which has ;been tried with success 

 is to wrap them in vine or other large leaves, and bury them 

 for twelve or more hours in sweet earth before cooking. 



