1^)04 



GLEANINGS IN BEE CULTURE. 



495 



-will save mutilating the wagon; and if a 

 cotter-pin is used to sliove through the holes 

 forming the pivoted joint, the pedal stand ard 

 can be easily removed. 



This device is so excellent that I think it 

 would pay any one who has much haul- 

 ing of bees to do, to have it put on his wag- 

 on. One fracas might pay for several hun- 

 dred of them. 1 would put it on any way, 

 as a matter of convenience and the saving 

 of time in hitching and unhitching. Load 

 the wagon up with bees without the horses 

 being hitched to it. When the load is all 

 on, pull the doubletree over; hook it into 

 place: get in, and drive to the outyard. On 

 arrival, unhook the team, drive it off to a 

 point of safety, and unload the bees. As 

 soon as the wagon is empt}', push it out of 

 the flying bees by hand, and hook the team 

 on and drive off. The device would be vcry 

 handy and a time-saver, even when the 

 horses are not being stung. As a means of 

 preventing accident, it would be worth 

 many times its cost. 



No doubt some will think that a rope 

 hitched to the ordinary king bolt would be 

 just as good. As I see it, it would not be 

 nearly as efficient. The unhooking with 

 the Duley device is accomplished with the 

 foot, leaving both hands free. One hand 

 holds the lines and the other the rope that 

 holds the doubletree. In a real fracas, 

 where the horses are being stung, and they 

 are plunging, the driver would be pretty 

 badly handicapped if he attempted to hold 

 the doubletree off from the horses' heels. 

 If thej' were rearing, it might be a difficult 

 matter to pull the king- bolt out. 



It is the consideration of these little things 

 in bee-yards that makes all the difference 

 between success and failure. — Ed.] 



GLASS-POST HIVE=STAND. 



Cheap, Durable, Lasting. 



BY DR. J. W. GUYTON. 



Our twentieth century demands something 

 new, cheap, and durable in the way of a 

 stand for our hives to rest on. This I offer 

 to the bee-keeping public in the form of 

 bottles for legs. I get the longest quart 

 bottles I can find, and with a hoe I make a 

 set of four or six holes — four holes for one 

 hive and six for two hives. These holes 

 are set at regular distances apart to receive 

 the bodies of the bottles. I set them in 

 about half their length, with the mouths up. 

 The bottles are to be leveled up with a 

 straight board and a spirit-level. Put 

 them in straight rows just where you want 

 your hives to be, and have them face just 

 the way you desire your hives to stand. 



Now take some 1X2 stuff and have it 

 smooth and well painted for the hives to 

 rest on. Cut them two or three inches 

 longer than your bottom-boards are wide; 

 or if you want to have a double breaster, 

 cut them long enough to reach clear across 



all three bottles. Now drive a four or five 

 penny nail through the timber just over the 

 mouth of the bottles. Leave not less than 

 one-eighth of the head end of the nails up. 

 These are to hold the bottom-board from 

 slipping and sliding about, and the lower 

 parts of the nails will hold the rails on the 

 mouths of the bottles. Hard winds will not 

 slip either rail or hive. 



guyton's hive-stand madk of old bot- 

 tles FOR GROUND SUPPORT. 



Such a hive- stand is very simple, and the 

 glass posts are everlasting so far as decay- 

 ing is concerned. It can be made very 

 cheap and serviceable as a dual stand or 

 for three hives if preferred. I consider such 

 a stand a most excellent one — so good that 

 I shall adopt it for all of my hives. 



If desired, four pieces may be used to 

 constitute the frame- work, and these secure- 

 ly nailed together. Then a longer nail will 

 be required to reach through and down into 

 the necks of the bottles. Such a frame 

 might be necessary where three or four 

 stories are left full of honey for any length 

 of time. 



An auger- hole may be made to receive a 

 pin that will fill the mouths of the bottles 

 instead of holding the framework or stand 

 with nails. In this case I would allow a 

 quarter of the pin to stand above to prevent 

 the bottom-board from slipping. Shorter 

 bottles, such as pint beer- bottles, could be 

 used, and bought some cheaper. 



SECTIONAL VIEW OF HIVE-STAND. 



A long black bottle with a deep recess or 

 sink in the bottom could be used and set up 

 much more easily by taking a wet spell to 

 do the bottle part of the work. The necks 

 could be pushed into the ground up to the 

 shoulder of the bottle, and the concave end 

 used to hold the framework by means of 

 small blocks of wood being cut just the size 

 of the recess in the bottom. These long 

 bottles will hold the hive-bottom up so that 



