GLEANINGS IN BEE CULTURE 



the right liand. transferred to tlie left hand, 

 and clipped as described above. I believe, 

 however, tliat the queen is less frightened 

 if calmly picked up from the comb and 

 quickly transferred to the left hand without 

 any rubber band or any other device. 



WHICH WAY DO THE BEES BUILD COMBS ? 



Every now and then some one tries to 

 start a discussion by arguing' that the bees 

 when building natural comb ahvays build 

 it in such a way that two parallel cell v/alls 

 are vertical so that the rows of cells are 

 horizontal. There is abundant proof to 

 sliow that bees often build comb the other 



way. Most of the pieces of natural comb 

 that 1 have seen are built with the rows of 

 cells running horizontally ; but here are 

 two pieces of comb that 1 found this sum- 

 mer, both of them with two parallel walls 

 liorizontal so that the rows of cells are 

 vertical. I doubt whether it . makes very 

 much difference to the bees. It is claimed 

 that the comb is less likely to sag if not 

 built this way. This I am ready to believe, 

 altho I have never seen any positive proof. 

 If it happens to be more convenient 

 when cutting up foundation to cut it in 

 such a way that the rows run vertically is 

 there any objection to so doing? 



SOME ADVANTAGES OF A BEE - EXCLUDING FRAME 



BY IMARK W. MOE 



A frame' cox'ered willi wire netting, which 

 might be called a bee-excluder, Avill be 

 found convenient for several purposes. The 

 out.side dimensions should be the same as 

 those of the hive it is to be used upon, with 

 a bee-space on the upper side, the same as 

 a queen-excluder, bee-escape, or any other 

 article used on a hive. It should have two 

 layers of wire netting, because, if only one 

 layer is used with supporting-strips, it 

 would allow too much space under the 

 frames in the hive-body or super above it. 

 If used without supporting-strips the wire 

 netting would be likely to sag enough in 

 som.e cases for bees to pass under division- 

 boards resting upon it. If no bee-space is 

 provided on top, there is danger of killing 

 bees, and sometimes queens, under the 

 frames. 



I much prefer to use this bee-excluder 

 instead of tacking wire netting on the 

 bottom of a brood-chamber, as advised in 

 the ABC and X Y Z of Bee Culture, for 

 mating queens in nuclei in an upper story, 

 and I also prefer having the outside en- 

 trances made in the bee-excluder rather 

 than in the brood-chamber above it. 



Among the uses Avhich may be named for 

 the bee-excluder are: 



1. To close the hive in moving bees. 



2. To separate a weak colony from a 

 strong colony below, for the purpose of 

 building up the weak colony, when, for any 

 reason, it is feared that either queen might 

 be lost if a queen-excluder were used. 



3. For the purpose of introducing a 

 queen with absolute safety, by releasing 

 her on frames of hatching brood over a 

 colony. The bee-excluder is jilaced be- 

 tween. 



4. For providing a place to put brood, 



with part of the bees adhering, in carrying 

 out any of the shaken-swarm methods. 



5. For mating queens in an upper story. 

 Sirnply fasten it to an empty brood-cham- 

 ber, with hive staples; provide bee-tight 

 division-boards, and canvas or enamel- 

 cloth to lay over the frames. When thru 

 mating queens, remove the bee-excluder and 

 your brood-chambers are ready for any 

 other use, with no unsightly holes in them. 



^^r/^A/ycES//^^ \ 



3UPORT/nO 



UPPER 

 SCREEN 



5EESPACE 



LomR^fcillN 

 Screen 



Cross 



STRIP 



Also, if a beekeeper happens to be using 

 closed-end frames he can still use an upper 

 story for queen-mating nuclei just the 

 same, and without cutting away any part of 

 the ends of his frames. 



6. By providing one or two holeg for bee- 

 escapes, to be covered with metal slides or 

 pieces of sections when not in use, the bee- 



