1168 



GLEANINGS IN BEE CULTURE 



an opening of only 1/4 x ^y^ inches at one 

 end, so that the entrance will be at the right 

 side of the hive. 



HIVE-STANDS. 



My hive-stands are like those commonly 

 used in the United States, consisting of four 

 pieces of inch material nailed squarely to- 

 gether. I strengthen these frames, how- 

 ever, by nailing triangular blocks in the 

 corners. I have these stands supported on 

 legs about eight inches long so that I can 

 put my feet underneath. This is very con- 

 venient when lifting heavy supers. 



Before nailing the hive-stands together I 

 soak all the lumber for twenty-four hours in 

 carbolineum so that the stand will last for 

 years before showing any signs of decay. I 

 can not recommend this disinfectant too 

 highly for all wooden structures that come 

 in direct contact with the soil. 



SUPER-COVERS. 



My super-covers have a hole in the center 

 to fit the mouth of a common fruit-jar. Be- 

 sides feeding syrup I also feed rock candy, 

 and the holes in the boards answer very well 



for this also. In mild winters, when the 

 bees consume a great deal of stores, I some- 

 times fear that they have too little to last 

 until spring, then I feed candy cakes made 

 after the recipe in the ABC and X Y Z of 

 Bee Culture. 



In January we often have one or two fine 

 days when the thermometer rises above 50 

 degrees, when the bees have a chance for a 

 cleansing flight. On such occasions I scrape 

 the peat dust (the packing material in the 

 super) to one side, thus uncovering the thin 

 board that rests over the hole in the super- 

 cover above mentioned. Then I can replace 

 (he thin board by a cake of candy (about 

 (i iDounds) which I cover with a piece of 

 burlap and scrape the peat dust back over 

 it. This takes less time than to tell about it, 

 and the bees are very little disturbed. 



A further advantage of the holes in the 

 hoards is that they enable me to take a 

 hasty glance at the interior of the hive at 

 times when it is too cold to overhaul the 

 brood-nest. 



Soest, Holland. 



SANITARY CONDITIONS IN THE BEEYARD 



BY J. E. JORDAN 



' Much of the bee disease of today is 

 spread by the unsanitary conditions tolerat- 

 ed by beekeepers. Many give the matter no 

 thought whatever; some know just enough 

 about bees to take the honey from them, 

 and do not think that there is any more to 

 learn. Sanitary conditions are just as im- 

 IDortant in beekeeping as elsewhere. I 

 think the greatest thing that could happen 

 would be to devote a certain day or week 

 of each year to cleaning up, all the bee- 

 keepers to get busy on that day. 



In getting things sanitary, first look into 

 the location of the apiary. Are the grounds 

 clean? Cleanliness is next to godliness. 

 I have found it best to place the hives so 

 that the sun will shine on them during the 

 whole day. The rays of the sun are known 

 to kill many germs. I do not advocate 

 shade here, as some bees are inclined to be 

 cross in a cool shady place and will not 

 work as early and late as those in the sun. 

 Of course if in a hot climate a little shade 

 during part of the day is desirable. 



See that the hives are well up off the 

 ground, so that plenty of air may circulate 

 under them. Never let grass grow so tall in 

 front of the hives that the bees can hardly 

 get in and out. Keep the grass clipped 

 short; and if you haven't time to mow it 



yourself, put a few sheep in the apiary 

 and they will keep it short for you. 



When examining a colony, and the frames 

 have burr-combs on them filled with honey, 

 do not allow this honey to drip to the 

 ground to attract other bees. Hold the 

 dripping frame over the hive so that the 

 bees of that hive will take care of it. If 

 you wish to scrape or cut off the burr-combs 

 do not throw them out in the yard. Put 

 them in a lard-ean fitted with a tight cover. 

 Do not give other bees a chance to get at 

 these wet burr combs, as it will be more 

 than likely to start robbing. 



Never leave combs, fixtures, or tools on 

 the floors where people have to walk; for 

 if you have visitors, and they happen to be 

 beekeepers who are careless, germs from 

 diseased honey or combs may be on the 

 soles of their shoes. Shallow steel pans 

 are fine for holding supers or combs; but 

 old newspapers are cheaper and better 

 than the pans, as they can be burned when 

 soiled. 



If an inspector comes to your place to 

 examine your bees, have him wash and dis- 

 infect his hands and tools before beginning 

 his work. Have this done in your presence 

 — do not take his v ord for it. A good 

 many inspectors obtain their positions thru 



