Fkbriarv, 1921. 



GLEANINGS IK BEE C T' L T T' K E 



85 



the middle of the hole in the top-bar. Begin- 

 ning at 1, wire as indicated in Fig. 9. 



So many liave advocated the use of staples 

 or eyelets to prevent the wire from cutting 

 into the wood, that H. H. Eoot decided to 

 give them a test. His conclusions are given 

 below in his own words: 



"We wired a number of frames with No. 

 28 wire with eyelets in the end-bars, and 

 also some frames with the same-sized wire 

 but with no eyelets in the end-bars. We 

 suspended these frames vertically by means 

 of a string tied around the top-bar in the 

 middle, and then put a strain on one of the 

 strands of horizontal wire by tying a pail 

 to one of the wires in such a way that the 

 pail would be suspended beneath the bot- 

 tom-bar of the frame. We arranged in this 



way two frames and two pails, one frame 

 liaving eyelets and the other having no eye- 

 lets. With everything hanging free we began 

 dipping water into each of the pails. In 

 every instance the sag of the wire was ap- 

 parently uniform until the pails held ap- 

 proximately five pounds of water when the 

 wire in the eyeleted frames broke. Tho we 

 repeated the exjieriment several times, the 

 result was always the same. The eyelet makes 

 a rather abrupt angle which weakens the 

 wire. When there is no eyelet the wire sinks 



ill the wood sufficiently to make a long 

 easy curve which effectually prevents break- 

 age. Moreover, we can see no advantage 

 whatever, so far as the stretching of the 

 wire was concerned, whether eyelets were 

 used or not. It should be pointed out that 

 the wire of today is hardly the equal of the 

 wire of a few years ago, for it varies con- 

 siderably, some being hard and some soft. 

 The hard wire breaks easily, while the soft 

 stretches so quickly that it may be stretched 

 by being wound around the fingers and 

 pulled with the two han<}s, " 



Variations of the Thousand-Dollar Trick, 



A number of the methods given are varia- 

 tions of the ''thousand-dollar trick." Some 

 have found that the staple in the top-bar 

 pulls out too readily, and therefore they 

 thread the diagonal wire thru a hole in the 

 top-bar, and there attach it with a nail or 

 tack (Fig.lO). 



George Giosenaues, Chicago, 111., who has 

 Jumbo frames, thieads thru five horizontal 



wires, fastening the free end at 11 (Fig. 11); 

 then before cutting the wire from the spool 

 he takes the next to the bottom wire, 

 stretches it up to the top-bar, and fastens 

 it over the head of a tack at 4, as was sug- 

 gested by Mr. Root in Heads of Grain in 

 the June (1920) issue. The wire is then cut 

 from the spool, leaving sufficient length to 

 thread back thru 5 and 3, where it is to be 

 fastened, care being taken not to allow con- 

 tact of the two wires in these holes. When 

 the Jumbo frame is completely wired in this 

 way, the diagonal wire is unhooked from 

 the nail in the top-bar, the sheet of founda- 

 tion slipped in place betwe(!n the horizon- 

 tal and the vertical wires, and the loose 

 wire slipped back over the nail-head. This 

 method makes it possible to use an electric 

 imbedder without danger of a short circuit. 

 A horizontal wire inserted under the ends 

 of the top-bar, and a diagonal wire looped 

 over the horizontal one and inserted between 

 the lower ends of the end-bar and the bot- 

 tom-bar (Fig. 12) may be placed in the 

 frame at the time of making the frame, ac- 

 cording to Wm. Grams, Sturgis, S. Dak. He 

 uses these two wiros in addition to the usual 

 four horizontals. This style of wiring would 



doubtless hold the comb firmly;, but, altho 

 we have never tried it, it seems to us it 

 would cause considerable trouble, and the 

 looiiiug of one wire over another would be 

 likely lo cause drone-cells nt the very place 



