116 



GLEAN^GS IN BEE CULTURE. 



Mar. 



^VINTERING BEES. 



M S near as I can "glean," one-half to two-thirds 

 Jrf^ of the colonies in this county are now dead. 

 — ^^ 1 have not lost any yet, out of the 2J0 or over, 

 that I am keeping. I think some 5 or 6 show signs 

 of dysentery. When I see signs of this disease on 

 the outside, I know just what kind of bees will be 

 found within. I am not afraid of any scj-ious loss, 

 even if winter lasts till May 1st. 



CAUSE OF DYSENTERY. 



I have observed numbers of dead colonies, and I 

 am more than ever convinced of my previous opin- 

 ion, that the cmise of dysentery is an undue amount 

 of animal or vegetable particles, so to speak, in the 

 honey the bees are wintering on— probably the for- 

 mer— a liacferto that infests honey while in the blos- 

 soms, or otherwise; that the greatest agyracations 

 of the disease are cold and confinement. Cold, be- 

 cause of the more honey consumed, and confin9- 

 mert. which prevents the voiding of the poisonous 

 accumulations. Cold and confinement, without this 

 bacteria, will not cause dj-sentery. These bacteria, 

 without cold and confinement, will not show them- 

 selves. 



The above is the only theory I can imagine, that 

 will fit all the cases that have come under my obser- 

 vation. I helieve it, because we so plainly see this 

 great law in the animal and vegetable world, that 

 one life exists at the expense and death of another. 

 Man comes into the category as no exception. 



SUGAR SYRUP OR HONEY FOR WINTER STORES. 



In my judgment, the best preventive is perfect 

 stores, which may consist of that substance which 

 contains the greatest amount of oxygen with the 

 least amount of residue. No doubt that a syrup 

 made from pure refined cane sugar is the nearest to 

 the above description of any practical material we 

 can use. This, however, does not argue the use of 

 the sugar syrup in all cases. Many seasons, and aU 

 seasons in some localities, the honey is of such good 

 character that bees winter well upon it, even when 

 unprotected, and during severe winters. 



COMPARATIVE COST OF EACH. 



Now that the syrup costs all or more than the cost 

 of honey, and that we must empty the combs after 

 all gathering ceases (and the bees rob so badly) and 

 then do the feeding, I am persuaded to take the risk, 

 after I have protected the hive as much as I can 

 consistently, rather than to extract and feed. I de- 

 light in light hives in the fall. When the cause of it 

 is that the bees put "too much" above, then 1 will 

 make up the deficit with properly prepared sugar 

 syrup. Where honey is very much more convenient 

 and cheaper, and you wish to feed it, heat and skim 

 it before so doing. 



THE HIVE ALONE NOT A PREVENTIVE. 



The idea that any style of hive induces or will pre- 

 vent dysentery, should be laid away among the old 

 superstitions. That some styles of hives will better 

 enable the bees to get at their stores in winter (and 

 thus prevent starvation where plenty of honey is 

 therein contained), is true. Also that some are bet- 

 ter adapted to the convenience of the bee-keeper, 

 as well for iMckiny as for manipulating the brood 

 and surplus cotabs, is also true. Different bee-keep- 

 ers have different and chosen methods and preferred 

 styles of hives. Our experience has been with large 

 numbers of colonies, and we consequently do not 

 attach any other business to the one of honey-pro- 



ducing, nor do we need to. It not only has had to 

 support itself, but a growing family, and capital be- 

 sides. But to the best methods of protecting the 

 hives for wintering on the summer stands. 



REASONS WHY FRIEND H. DOES NOT WANT A CHAFF 

 HIVE. 



To begin with, I can not aiTiliate with the chaff 

 hive. It will not do me for a larger business; it 

 costs too much; it is not so durable and strong; it 

 is too heavy; it is not thick enough on its sides. I 

 can not adopt a hive that makes me work through 

 one story to handle the combs in another. 



FRIEND HEDDONS HIVE. 



The cut shows you the style of hive that I use and 

 prefer, and now I will try to explain to you the meth- 

 od I use to protect from 300 to 500 of them in the 

 cheapest, safest, and most practical manner, as 

 viewed from my standpoint. 



The cut shows you the cover to the rim-cap, which 

 is a common cap (without top or bottom) but this 

 rim is not shown. Please imagine the surplus sec- 

 tions off the hiv^; also the honey-board. 



First, I lay two pieces of basswood, previously 

 bentbowing thus ^, across the hive, each end fast 

 within the side walls, and the bows about six inches 

 apart. (The bows are 12x78x3-16 before bent, and the 

 hive is IIH inches wide in the clear;) then a piece of 

 burlap, or any other cloth. Now put on the cap-rim, 

 and fill with dry chatf or planer shavings, and piace 

 on the cover shown in cut. Now, is not the tup well 

 packed? Now, what is the cheapest and best method 

 to protect the sides? I first make a "bridge" that is 

 composed of two little boards PsxSxllis, and two 

 pieces '/4x7ix" inches. The boards are so nailed to 

 the pieces as to form a bridge and alighting-board, 

 both; and when adjusted can not move from its 

 proper position, as the projecting ends of the pieces 

 run into the entrance one inch. 



Next I make a rim of cheap boards; by " rim " I 

 mean a box open top and bottom, about 18 inches 

 wide, all but the front end, which is composed of a 

 narrower board only 13 inches wide. Set this rim 

 over the hive, and draw the bottom edge of the nar- 

 row board up tight against the bridge-board. Now, 

 you see the sides and back end rest upon the ground, 

 and the narrower front end upon the bridge pieces. 

 Now fill between the hive and outer rim (we use a 

 five-inch space on sides and back, and 3 inches in 

 front), with sawdust or chaff. If chaff is used it 

 should be packed very firm, and a little straw the 

 last thing on top, and earth upon that to hold it 

 down, and exclude the air better. We much prefer 

 sawdust, as it is a little better conductor, and is just 

 a splendid litter for the apiary ground. Now we 



