210 THE \VILD PONIEi) OF EXMOOR. 



trudging up, steep uscents — v.e proceed by a track as 

 sound as if it had been under the care of a model board 

 of trustees — for the simple reason that it rested on 

 natural rock. We pushed along at an average rate of 

 some six miles an hour, allowing for the slow crawling 

 up hills ; passing many rich fields wherein fat oxen of 

 the Devon breed calmly grazed, v/ith sheei^ that had 

 certainly not been bred on mountains. Once we passed 

 a deserted copper-mine ; W'hich, after having been worked 

 for many years, had at length failed, or grown un- 

 profitable, under the competition of the richer mines of 

 Cuba and South Australia. A long chimney, peering 

 above deserted cottages, and a plentiful crop of weeds, 

 Avas tlie sole monument of departed glories — in shares 

 and dividends — and mine-cajjtain's promises. 



At length the hedges began to grow" thinner ; beeches 

 succeeded the hazels ; the road, more rugged and bare, 

 showed the marks where winter s rains had ploughed 

 deep channels ; and, at the turn of a steep hill, we saw, 

 on the one hand, the brown and blue moor stretching 

 before and above us ; and on the other hand, below, like 

 a map, the fertile vale lay unrolled, various in colour, 

 according to the crops, divided by enclosures into every 

 angle from most acute to most obtuse. Below was the 

 cultivation of centuries ; above, the turnip — the greatest 

 improvement of modern agriculture — flourished, a deep 

 green, under the protection of fences of very recent 

 date. 



One turnpike, and cottages at rare intervals, had so 

 far kept up the idea of population ; but now, far as the 

 horizon extended, not a place of habitation was to bo 

 seen ; until, just in a hollow bend out of the ascending 

 road, we came upon a low wdiite farm-house, of humble 



