A HISTORY OF DURHAM 



THE TEES DISTRICT 



The Tees, rising in Cumberland on the slopes of Cross Fell, first enters Durham at its 

 junction with the Crookburn Beck which flows southwards from Yad Moss. It continues a 

 fairly level course for some miles, spreading into a still expanse of water forming the Weel, 

 in which are found Potamogcton rufescens and an abundance of Ranunculus peltatus. Immediately 

 below this, at Cauldron Snout, the river contracts into a narrow channel and, falling to a depth 

 of lOO feet, tumbles over a series of rocky ledges. Rushing through a deepening basaltic 

 gorge by a succession of cataracts the turbulent waters at last emerge from the narrow chasm, 

 and by a final leap broaden out, fan-like, into a torrent of boiling foam. The Maze Beck 

 enters just below the Snout, and then the stream flows swiftly over a very rocky bed, taking 

 an irregular winding course to the sea. Beyond the Weel extends a bare, desolate waste of 

 moors with not a tree to be seen, these heights being a part of the main limestone formation, 

 Carex rigida and Epilohium alpinum are rare plants growing here. On Bleak Law, at an 

 elevation of i,8oo feet, occur Draba incana, Erophila vulgaris, Asplenium viride and Cystopteris 

 fragilis. On VViddy Bank Fell a special abundance of very rare plants is found, among them 

 Gentlana verna, Arenaria uliginosa, Thalictrum alpinum, Potentilla alpestris, Viola arenaria, and 

 Carex capillaris. On the north side the fell appears as a rounded sloping hill, the summit 

 covered with heather. Heather clothes also the steep cliffs which face the Tees and which 

 terminate to the south-west by perpendicular basaltic crags known as the Falcon Clints. 

 Among the talus of sharp rocks some of the familiar plants which it is interesting to observe 

 have established themselves are : Oxalis acctosella. Geranium Rohertianum and lucidum, Asplenium 

 Adiantum-nigrum, Pteris aquilina and Polypodium vulgare ; the rare Saxifraga aizoides and 

 hypnoides and Sedum telephium are also plentifully seen. Juniper bushes cling to the crevices 

 of the basaltic columns with here and there a solitary mountain ash, while Solidago virgaurea, 

 Teucrium Scorodonia, Fragraria vesca, Corylus Avellana, Sanguisorba officinale. Digitalis purpurea 

 and Campanula rotundifolia find a home among the rocks and heather. On these clints also 

 many special species appear, such as Woodsia ilvensis, Aspidium Lonchitis, Potentilla alpestris, 

 Arctostaphylos Uva-ursi, Juncus triglumis, Kobresia caricina, Hieracium iricum, H. anglicum and 

 H. pallidum. To these may be added others, all noteworthy, growing on the banks of the 

 various streams which flow outwards from Widdy Bank Fell, such as Bartsia alpina, Sedum 

 villosum, Saxifraga stellaris, Galium boreale, G. Sylvestre, Sesleria carulia, Cryptogramme crispa, Poly- 

 podium calcareum, Equisetum variegatum, Poa ParneUii, Tofieldia palustris and Scirpus paucijlorus. 

 Armeria maritima is found plentifully on one of the little streams running from the sugar 

 limestone. 



This upper drainage tract of the Tees is separated into two distinct dales, the one 

 formed by the Tees itself and the other by the Harwood Beck running almost parallel with 

 it from north to south. Langdon Beck flows in the same direction through a narrower valley 

 to the west, and taking a south-easterly turn joins Harwood Beck at Langdon Bridge. Their 

 united streams flowing southwards meet with the Tees about a mile above High Force. At 

 this meeting of the waters on the flat piece of ground known as the Whetstone Sill Potentilla 

 fruticosa, an extremely rare plant, grows most luxuriantly. The peculiarly rare Bartsia alpina 

 grows here too, but most abundantly a little higher up by the Whey Sikc, and from the Widdy 

 Bank streams it is carried down to Harwood Beck. Habenaria albida is found plentifully 

 near the same point, as well as Hieracium gotbicum, corymhosum, and crocatum, all rare species, 

 extending also for some distance down the stream. It is difficult to tread anywhere hereabouts 

 without finding a profusion of Gentiana Amarella. In Harwood Dale luuncrous species of 

 the commoner lowland plants ascend to a considerable altitude. To give a few instances : 

 Lychnii diurna, Geranium sylvaticum, Spiraea ulmaria, Ajuga reptam, and Briza media, are found 

 on the limestone scars at an elevation of 1,650 feet; Pedicularis palustris nnd Plantago media 

 attain a limit of 1,700 feet, Poa trivialis i,8oo feet, while Listera ovata, Rumex crispus, 

 Achillea ptarmica, and Apargia hispida reach a limit of 1,950 feet. TrolUus europicus and 

 Caltha palustris form a very conspicuous feature of Tecsdalc, spreading themselves in quantity 

 over the whole valley above High Force. The deep iihic Swiss gentian {Gentiana verna) is 

 abundantly distriiiuted in several places, Fcndrith Hill, Widdy Bank Fell, and above Cauldron 

 Snout being favourite localities of this lovely flower. Primula farinosa also grows in plenty 

 in the marshy places, especially about Langdon Dale. The very rare Faccinium uliginosum 

 occurs sparingly on the boggy parts of the moor above High Force, and in the drier more 

 sandy ground "Jtisione montana has cstaiilished a home. 



From Cauldron Snout to the iiead of High Force the river declines in level 430 feet, 

 and then rushes in a great sheet of foam over a precipice some 78 feet high, forming a very 



48 



