274 The Principles of Fruit-growing 



wounded and broken surfaces should be thoroughly covered 

 with some antiseptic wash or paint, or with grafting-wax. 



Watering. 



If the young trees or other plants are set in autumn or 

 early in the spring and in well-prepared ground, there 

 should be very little loss from lack of moisture to start 

 them off well. In late spring planting, however, and if the 

 trees are either shrivelled or have begun to start, the dry 

 hot weather may catch them before they are well estab- 

 lished. In exceptionally dry springs, many trees may be 

 lost even with the best of care at the beginning. In all 

 such cases, one good watering at the critical time may save 

 the bushes or trees. If some of them are very slow to 

 start, they should receive separate attention. See whether 

 the earth has been properly firmed about them, and 

 whether they have been sufficiently pruned. If the water- 

 ing is undertaken, it should be liberal. A young tree may 

 well receive a pail of water, so that the tissues may be 

 well plumped up and revived. When the water has settled 

 away about the tree, cover the place with loose earth or 

 apply a mulch of straw or similar material. It may pay 

 to go over a doubtful plantation with a clean spray tank 

 and apply water to all trees that give signs of not starting. 



Even bearing trees in dry places, as on thin hillsides, 

 may be carried through a dry spell by one or two thor- 

 ough soakings. Remove the fruit also, if the tree appears 

 to be failing. 



Bark-bound trees. 



When a tree has been allowed to become stunted for 

 two or three or more years, it is very likely to be hide- 

 bound, so that growth is impeded, even though the care 



