HIGHLAND MEMORIES 155 



looking down the Loch from Whistlefield is magnificent, the 

 wooded banks on either side being a splendid setting for the 

 gleaming salt water. But Garelochhead is dirty, and no place 

 to sojourn in, except for an hour or two. At Portincaple it is 

 different. On mounting the Whistlefield road, there comes 

 quite suddenly upon the traveller one of the greatest sights in 

 these parts. There are mountains galore ahead of us, many of 

 considerable altitude. Two thousand feet may quite safely 

 be mentioned as an average height. To the west we see almost 

 below us the entrance to Loch Goil, to the north-east there is 

 the continuation of lovely Loch Long. Bounding Loch Long 

 on the other side, is Argyll's Bowling Green, or Glasgow's High- 

 land Estate, as it is also called. As a matter of fact, it is a range 

 of mountains of some fourteen hundred feet in height ! I went 

 down Loch Long on its eastern side yesterday. I first struck 

 it near Coulport, and from there to Cove it was an experience 

 not likely to be forgotten. The scenery of the Gareloch is pretty, 

 charmingly pretty, but at Loch Long it is majestic. Of course, 

 Loch Long, as its name implies, is a longer sheet of water than 

 the Gareloch, and the Argyllshire Mountains on the western side 

 are truly magnificent in their rugged grandeur. Loch Long is 

 wider than its cousin over the eastern hills, and, though I shall 

 shortly be at Loch Lomond, my vote at present, in so far as the 

 majesty of scenic effect is concerned, must be recorded for the 

 first-named. 



The Gareloch is not only prettier than Loch Long, but it has 

 undoubtedly a better fauna and flora, and is much more pleasantly 

 wooded. So far, my list of birds is close upon fifty species, 

 several of great interest. Of these I shall have something to 

 say at a later date. In the meantime, I am revelling among some 

 of the finest scenery in the world. This is the land of cakes, of 

 mountains, lochs, glens, and burns. It is also the land of 

 midges ! 



The Scotch railways mightily facilitate travel in their country, 

 for much of its success depends upon the invasion of visitors 

 from over the border. The railway, steamboat, and coach 

 arrangements are admirably conducted, and a little trouble 

 taken beforehand will pave the way for comfort and convenience 

 on behalf of the passenger. Having taken a tourist ticket from 

 Letchworth to Helensburgh, I was able, on the production of 

 my return half at the North British Kailway Station in Glasgow, 

 to secure a cheap return ticket to a little place called Mallaig 



