HIGHLAND MEMORIES 165 



Ailort one of the finest points we had touched, but, when we 

 reached Arisaig, all records were broken, for from thence we 

 could see right out to the Sound of Arisaig, with the Islands of 

 Muck, Eigg, Rum, and Skye in the far distance. It was an 

 enchanting sight for a land-lubber to gaze upon, and, as we 

 came nearer to the rocky coast at Mallaig, and watched the 

 battling waves, our excitement grew intense. On our right, as 

 we neared Mallaig, Loch Morar was exposed to view, and a very 

 lovely sheet of water it is, but our eyes were drawn, as by a 

 magnet, to the left hand side, where the mazy breakers of the 

 Altantic Ocean called for immediate observation. 



As we came within hail of the little hamlet of Mallaig (for it 

 merely consists of a railway station, a harbour, one sumptuous 

 hotel, a few shops, and almost as few houses), we could see just 

 across the water the islands of Eigg and Rum, and, of course, 

 the bonnie Isle of Skye, with the Point of Sleat right at the 

 southern corner. The train, seemed to hug the waves as near 

 as it were possible, until, verily, we came to Land's End ! There 

 was no excitement when we landed at this terminus of the High- 

 land line. No shouting of porters, no clanging of bells, no taxi- 

 cars, indeed no conveyances of any kind, for there is nowhere to 

 be conveyed to, except across the bosom of the mighty ocean at 

 our feet. The harbour was, it is true, somewhat more exciting, 

 for a palatial yacht or two were at anchor, a steamer was shortly 

 sailing for Skye, and some fishing boats were unloading their 

 precious freights. 



We walked along the coast a little distance, noting, as we went 

 upon our lonely way, as fine a company of Herring Gulls, perched 

 on a church roof (I forgot to mention there are two churches at 

 Mallaig), as I have ever seen, when we turned and looked towards 

 Skye. The grand heights of the Coolin Hills, several points of 

 which reach an altitude of over three thousand feet, were plainly 

 visible. My poor geographical knowledge was somewhat im- 

 proved by a Highland woman I met along the shore. She had 

 two receptacles with her for the purpose of collecting water 

 from a friendly burn. I learnt from her the exact position of 

 the Islands of Eigg and of Rum, of Canna, and the Western 

 Hebrides. I specially wanted to see the Isle of Muck. The 

 name appealed to me somehow, I could see Eigg and Rum, why 

 not Muck ? My Highland friend informed me that the latter 

 was hidden in mist among the Atlantic breakers, and " It wouldna' 

 cleer the dee." As I took stock of this brawny, dark-skinned 



