Orange Harbour. 

 Disposition of the squadron. 



TERRA DEL FUEGO. 



A Petcherai Indian, his squaw, 

 and four children. 



ing to the eye, bounded on all sides by undulating 

 hills, which are covered with evergreen foliage. 

 Distant mountains, some of which are capped with 

 snow, shooting up in a variety of forms, seen 

 beyond the extensive bays, form a fine background. 

 From the vessels, the hills look like smooth downs, 

 and if it were not for the inclemency and fitfulness 

 of the weather, they might be contemplated with 

 some pleasure. 



The hills are covered with dense forests of 

 beech, birch, willow, and winter-bark. Some of 

 the former trees are forty or fifty feet high, having 

 all their tops bent to the north-east by the pre- 

 vailing south-west winds. They are remarkably 

 even as to height, having more the look, at a dis- 

 tance, of heath than of forest trees. 



The whole coast has the appearance of being of 

 recent volcanic rocks, but all our investigations 

 tended to prove the contrary. We no where found 

 any cellular lava, pumice, or obsidian, nor was 

 there any granite or other primitive rock seen, 

 though reported by Captain King as existing. The 

 rock was trachytic, or of trap formation, apparently 

 having undergone more or less action by fire. 



Immediately on our arrival at Orange Harbour, 

 active preparations were made for a short cruise to 

 the antarctic. Although the season was late, I at 

 least anticipated getting some experience among 

 the ice; and I supposed that the lateness of the 

 season would have allowed it to detach itself from 

 the shores of Palmer's Land, and would per- 

 mit as near an approach as possible to its main 

 body or barrier, in the vicinity of Cook's Ne Plus 

 Ultra. 



Agreeably to my instructions, such disposition 

 was made of the squadron as seemed best calcu- 

 lated to obtain the necessary results in the different 

 departments. Captain Hudson, with the Peacock, 

 and the Flying-Fish, under Lieutenant Walker, 

 as a tender, were ordered to the westward, as far 

 as the Ne Plus Ultra of Cook. I went in the Por- 

 poise, Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, accom- 

 panied by the Sea-Gull, Lieutenant Johnson, to 

 pass to the south, for the purpose, if possible, of 

 exploring the south-east side of Palmer's Land, or, 

 should an opportunity offer, of proceeding further 

 south. The Relief, Lieutenant-Commandant Long, 

 was ordered into the Straits of Magellan, through 

 the Brecknock Passage and Cockburn's Sound, 

 with part of the gentlemen of the scientific corps, 

 in order to enlarge our field of operations. Mr. 

 Peale volunteered to go south in the Peacock. 



The Vincennes was safely moored in Orange 

 Harbour, and left under the charge of Lieutenant 

 Craven, to carry on the investigations, surveys, 

 &c. &c. Messrs. Couthouy and Drayton, of the 

 scientific corps, remained in the Vincennes. Lieu- 

 tenant Carr was put in charge of the observatory. 



In making the changes necessary for this cruise 

 to the south, I regretted extremely being compelled, 

 from the want of junior officers, to supersede tem- 

 porarily both Passed Midshipmen Reid and Knox 

 in command of the two tenders. These officers 

 had not their superiors in the squadron for the 

 situations they occupied ; but the duty I owed the 

 expedition and country compelled me to do it, and 

 also to refuse their application to be transferred 

 from the tenders, for I was well satisfied, as long 

 as they were on board, the vessels would be well 

 taken care of. I had a very high opinion of Mr. 



Reid, from the experience I had had of him ; and 

 as respects Mr. Knox, I feel it my duty here to 

 acknowledge how much the expedition is indebted 

 to him for his services on board the Flying-Fish. 

 He not only had the ability, but the necessary per- 

 severance and ambition, to perform his duties well. 

 So arduous were they, that I was for a time 

 obliged to transfer him to my ship on account of 

 his health. The moment his health permitted it, 

 he was again put in command of the Flying- Fish, to 

 the great advantage of the service. In according 

 thus much to his industry, ability, and zeal, I am 

 well satisfied that I but speak the opinion of every 

 officer in the squadron. 



The vessels were well supplied with fuel, provi- 

 sions, and various antiscorbutics, for ten months. 

 A spot for the observatory was fixed upon, and 

 orders left for the duties to be performed during the 

 absence of the squadron. 



During our stay, we had at various times visits 

 from the natives. They were all at first very shy, 

 but after they found our friendly disposition to- 

 wards them, they became more sociable and con- 

 fiding. 



Before our departure from Orange Harbour, a 

 bark canoe came alongside with an Indian, his 

 squaw, and four children. The tribe to which they 

 belonged is known by the name of the Petcherai 

 Indians. They were entirely naked, with the ex- 

 ception of a small piece of seal-skin, only sufficient 

 to cover one shoulder, and which is generally 

 worn on the side from which the wind blows, 

 affording them some little shelter against its pierc- 

 ing influence. 



They were not more than five feet high, of a 

 light copper colour, which is much concealed by 

 smut and dirt, particularly on their faces, which 

 they mark vertically with charcoal. They have 

 short faces, narrow foreheads, and high cheek- 

 bones. Their eyes are small and usually black, the 

 upper eyelids in the inner corner overlapping the 

 under one, and bear a strong resemblance to those 

 of the Chinese. Their nose is broad and flat, with 

 wide-spread nostrils, mouth large, teeth white, 

 large, and regular. The hair is long, lank, and 

 black, hanging over the face, and is covered with 

 white ashes, which gives them a hideous appear- 

 ance. The whole face is compressed. Their bodies 

 are remarkable from the great development of the 

 chest, shoulders, and vertebral column; their arms 

 are long, and out of proportion; their legs small and 

 ill-made. There is in fact little difference between 

 the size of the ankle and leg; and when standing, 

 the skin at the knee hangs in a large loose fold. In 

 some, the muscles of the leg appear almost wanting, 

 and possess very little strength. This want of de- 

 velopment in the muscles of the legs is owing to 

 their constant sitting posture, both in their huts 

 and canoes. Their skin is sensibly colder than 

 ours. It is impossible to fancy any thing in human 

 nature more filthy. They are an ill-shapen and 

 ugly race. They have little or no idea of the rela- 

 tive value of articles, even of those that one would 

 suppose were of the utmost use to them, such as 

 iron and glass-ware. A glass bottle broken into 

 pieces, is valued as much as a knife. Red flannel 

 torn into stripes, pleases them more than in the 

 piece; they wound it around their heads, as a kiud 

 of turban, and it was amusing to see their satisfac- 

 tion at this small acquisition. 



