Valparaiso. The Cordilleras. 

 Observatory established. 



CHILI. 



Perceptible change in the bay. Valparaiso. Con- 

 trast of its present state with that of 1 821 and 1822. 



are known by the banks of cumuli in that quarter, 

 some twenty-four hours previously,) to stand to 

 the southward and westward in preference, with as 

 much sail as well can be carried, that when the 

 change occurs, you may be ready to stand on the 

 other tack to the northward. One thing every 

 navigator ought to bear in mind, that it requires 

 all the activity and perseverance he may be pos- 

 sessed of to accomplish it quickly. 



On the 20th we took our final leave of these 

 waters, and on the 21st lost sight of land, passing 

 to the northward of the island of Diego Ramieres. 



On the 23rd, during a strong gale, we parted 

 company with the Porpoise. 



Immediately after leaving Orange Harbour, 

 dysentery made its appearance on board the Vin- 

 cennes, and ran through the whole ship's company. 

 Some of the officers were also affected. It proved 

 of a very mild type, and readily yielded to medical 

 treatment. Upon our arrival at Valparaiso, it had 

 entirely disappeared. The medical officers were 

 unable to account for it, the health of the ship's 

 company having been very good during our stay at 

 Orange Harbour. It was not thought to be owing 

 to the water, as they had been using it for two 

 months without any bad effect, but I think must be 

 imputed to the cold and wet we experienced in the 

 first part of the passage. 



On the 15th we made the land off Valparaiso, 

 and before noon anchored in the bay, where we 

 found the Peacock, and received tidings that the 

 Relief had sailed with the store-ship Mariposa for 

 Callao. The Porpoise arrived on the 16th, and 

 the Flying-Fish reached Valparaiso on the 19th, 

 after having experienced extremely boisterous 

 weather. 



On approaching the coast of Chili, every one is 

 anxious to get a sight of the Cordilleras. There 

 are only two periods during the day in which they 

 can be seen to advantage, viz. in the morning 

 before sunrise, and in the evening at sunset. The 

 first is the most striking view. The outline is at 

 that time of a golden hue, and may be easily 

 traced, in a long line, running north and south. 

 This gradually brightens, and is lost the moment 

 the sun is seen. 



The evening view gives rise to disappointment. 

 The mountains are seen at a great distance (eighty 

 miles in a bird's flight), reflecting the setting sun, 

 and, in consequence, appear much lower than is 

 anticipated. 



On our arrival at Valparaiso, I lost no time in 

 establishing the observatory. The officers and 

 scientific gentlemen were assigned to such duties 

 as were deemed most desirable to insure the re- 

 sults in the different departments. 



The authorities, whom I at once called upon in 

 company with our consul, were exceedingly kind 

 and attentive, and gave every offer of assistance. 



The officers of the customs readily gave me per- 

 mission to land all my instruments. Mr. Good, an 

 English gentleman, kindly offered our consul to 

 place at my disposition an unoccupied house on the 

 hill. Although it was some distance to mount up, 

 as it was quiet and out of the way, I accepted the 

 kind offer, and occupied it. 



As I was desirous of avoiding all unnecessary 

 delay, not only on account of the loss of time we 

 had already met with, but because the season was 

 approaching when the northers might be expected, 



every exertion was made to supply our wants, and 

 through the kindness and attention of our consul, 

 G. G. Hobson, esq., this was effected in the shortest 

 possible time. The northers are greatly dreaded, 

 although I think without much cause. One of 

 them, and the last of any force, I had myself 

 experienced in June, 1822 (whilst in command of 

 a merchant vessel). In it eighteen sail of vessels 

 were lost. But since that time vessels are much 

 better provided with cables and anchors, and what 

 proved a disastrous storm then would now scarcely 

 be felt. I do not deem the bay so dangerous as it 

 has the name of being. The great difficulty of the 

 port is its confined space, and in the event of a 

 gale, the sea that sets in is so heavy, that vessels 

 are liable to come in contact with each other, and 

 to be more or less injured. The port is too limited 

 in extent to accommodate the trade that is carried 

 on in it. Various schemes and improvements are 

 talked of, but none that are feasible. The depth 

 of water opposes an almost insuperable obstacle to 

 its improvement by piers. The enterprise of the 

 government, and of the inhabitants of Valparaiso, 

 is, I am well satisfied, equal to any undertaking 

 that is practicable. 



From the best accounts, I am satisfied that the 

 harbour is filling up, from the wash off the hills. 

 Although this may seem but a small amount of 

 deposition, yet after a lapse of sixteen years, the 

 change was quite perceptible to me, and the oldest 

 residents confirmed the fact. The anchorage of the 

 vessels has changed, and what before was thought 

 an extremely dangerous situation, is now considered 

 the best in the event of bad weather. The sea is 

 to be feared rather than the wind, for the latter 

 seldom blows home, because the land immediately 

 behind the city rises in abrupt hills, to the height 

 of from eight to fifteen hundred and two thousand 

 feet. 



Valparaiso has greatly increased in size and con- 

 sequence within the last few years, and has become 

 the great sea-port of Chili, and, indeed, of the whole 

 coast. Although it labours under many disadvan- 

 tages as respects its harbour, which is inferior to 

 others on the coast, yet it is the nearest and most 

 convenient port to Santiago, the capital. 



I have had some opportunity of knowing Valpa- 

 raiso, and contrasting its present state with that of 

 1821 and 1822. It was then a mere village, com- 

 posed, with but few exceptions, of straggling ran- 

 ches. It has now the appearance of a thickly- 

 settled town, with a population of thirty thousand, 

 five times the number it had then. It is divided 

 into two parts, one of which is known by the name 

 of the Port, and is the old town; the other by that 

 of the Almendral, occupying a level plain to the 

 east. Its location is by no means such as to show 

 it to advantage. The principal buildings are the 

 custom-house, two churches, and the houses occu- 

 pying the main street. Most of the buildings are 

 of one story, and are built of adobes or sun-dried 

 brick. The walls of the buildings are from four to 

 six feet thick. The reason for this mode of build- 

 ing is the frequent occurrence of earthquakes. The 

 streets are well paved. The plaza has not much 

 to recommend it. The government-house is an 

 inferior building. Great improvements are now 

 making, and many buildings on the eve of erec- 

 tion. 



They are about bringing water from one of the 



