Excursion into the interior. 

 Biloches. 



CHILI. 



Excursion into the interior. 

 Biloches. 



37 



broidered coat, gold epaulettes, and field-marshal's 

 sash. He danced a minuet with a lady of Val- 

 paraiso, whom he had especially selected, after 

 which the dancing became general, consisting of 

 quadrilles, country-dances, and waltzes, besides 

 which they had the lascivious dances of sama- 

 cueca, cachuca, and lordean. These partake some- 

 what of the bolero and fandango, or Spanish and 

 African dance. 



By way of interlude, marches and national airs 

 were played and sung. The ball did not break up 

 until eight o'clock next morning, at which hour the 

 president and his daughter were escorted home by 

 a procession of the dancers, with the music playing 



national airs, forming rather a grotesque show to 

 the by-standers, from the interchange of hats and 

 outer garments that had taken place. 



On reaching General Prieto's quarters, they sang 

 a national hymn, after which many were invited in, 

 where they again continued dancing until noon. 



I should not omit to mention that after midnight 

 the ladies underwent a second operation of the 

 toilet. 



The whole equalled, if it did not surpass, any of 

 our own fetes in the United States ; indeed all 

 who attended were much surprised, having little 

 idea that Valparaiso could have made so brilliant 

 and tasteful a display of beauty and magnificene. 



CHAPTER VII. 



CHILI. 



CHILI (CONTINUED) JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR BILOCHES CASA BLANCA GEOLOGICAL FORMATION CURACOVI 

 CUESTA DE ZAPATA CUESTA BEL PRADO ROADS TRANSPORTATION OF GOODS BEGGARS PLAIN OF MATPO 

 CORDILLERAS ST. JAGO MINT LIBRARY AMUSEMENTS FASHIONS MARKET CLIMATE EXCURSION TO THE 

 CORDILLERAS MOUNTAIN SCENERY SNOW GUANACOES HEAT RETURN TO ST. JAGO MAYPOCHO JOURNEY TO 

 SAN FELIPE aUlLLOTA TUPONGATI PEAK CATCHING WILD HORSES ARRIVAL AT SAN FELIPE DE ACONCAGUA 

 TOWN OF SAN FELIPE CHICHA AND AGUARDIENTE THEIR MANUFACTURE AGRICULTURAL IMPLEMENTS 

 COPPER MINES LAKE ON THE HIGH CORDILLERAS KINDNESS OF MR. NEWMAN, AN ENGLISH GENTLEMAN, AND 

 HIS LADY POPULATION OF CHILI. 



PREVIOUS to my arrival at Valparaiso, the natural- 

 ists and some officers on board the Peacock and 

 Relief had made excursions into the interior. On 

 my arrival, I allowed all those who could be spared, 

 and were desirous of visiting Santiago, sufficient 

 leave to make the trip. Several set out for that 

 city, and some with a view of extending their 

 journey to the Cordilleras beyond. 



The bilocheros were eager for opportunities to 

 hire their biloches, a vehicle somewhat resembling 

 a double gig, which is generally used for travelling 

 in Chili. They have a most rickety and worn-out 

 appearance ; almost every part appears mended 

 with cords made of hide. They accommodate two 

 passengers; and the time required between Valpa- 

 raiso and the city (Santiago), is about eighteen or 

 twenty hours. In the shafts a horse is put ; a 

 postilion rides one on the left, and sometimes 

 another is placed on the right, both being fastened 

 to the vehicle by lassos of raw-hide proceeding 

 from the saddle. Each vehicle is attended by three 

 bilocheros or drivers, with a drove of twelve or 

 fifteen horses, forming quite a cavalcade. 



The bilocheros are very expert at their business. 

 They are excellent riders, having been brought up 

 to this exercise fi'om their infancy, and understand 

 managing their horses, though in a rude way. 

 Their horses are small, but spirited, and bear 

 fatigue well. Their usual speed is about nine or 

 ten miles an hour. Few equipages can compare 

 with these crazy machines, driven, as they some- 

 times are, pell-mell up hill and down dale, with all 

 their accompaniments of horses, guachos, &c. ; and 

 it affords no small amusement to those on foot, to 

 witness the consternation of the affrighted passen- 

 gers, in momentary expectation of a break-down. 

 It is a difficult matter to acquire composure, on 



seeing the numerous temporary lashings, giving 

 ocular proof that accidents have been frequent, 

 however well satisfied one may be with the skill 

 of the conductor. Fortunately the road is excel- 

 lent, though at this season (May) it is di- 

 vested of much of its beauty from the want of 

 vegetation. The interest is, however, carried for- 

 ward to the lofty peaks of the Andes, of whose 

 summits occasional glimpses are had ; and the eye 

 glances over the surrounding scenery in the imme- 

 diate neighbourhood, that would elsewhere be 

 deemed grand, to rest on some high and towering 

 peak. Among these the peak of Tupongati is 

 the most noted, ranking, since the measurement 

 of King, as next in height to the Himmaleh 

 mountains. 



The first stopping-place is at Casa Blanca, a 

 small pueblo of some five hundred inhabitants, 

 where travellers usually sleep. The accommoda- 

 tions were good, having been recently much im- 

 proved. In the neighbourhood is the only tract of 

 woodland to be found in this part of the country. 

 The elevation of Casa Blanca is five hundred and 

 ninety-eight feet above the level of the sea. 



The road from Casa Blanca next passes through 

 Curacovi, a small pueblo, where the trap rock first 

 makes its appearance, and then over a high ridge, 

 called the Cuesta des Zapata. This terminates the 

 first plain, and divides it from the second, of simi- 

 lar character, which extends to the Cuesta del 

 Prado. It is passed over by a zigzag road, and 

 was found to be two thousand three hundred and 

 ninety-four feet high. On reaching the top, the view 

 that presents itself is extensive and magnificent. 



In front is the extensive plain of Maypo, with 

 here and there a conical mountain standing alone 

 on it. At the extremity of the plain rise the lofty 



