4G 



Island of San Lorenzo. Conduct of crew 

 of the Relief. Punishment. Complaints. 



PERU. 



Bay of Callao. Contrast of Callao in 1821 

 with its present state. 



are all barren sandy hills. It is said that the only 

 plant which has been cultivated is the potato, and 

 that only on the north peak. This becomes possible 

 there from the moisture of the clouds, and their 

 shielding it from the hot sun. 



The geological structure of the island is princi- 

 pally composed of limestone, clay, and slate. It 

 presents a beautiful stratification. Gypsum is found 

 in some places between the strata, and crystals of 

 selenite are met with in one or two localities. 

 Quantities of shell-fish are found on the shore, and 

 the waters abound with excellent fish. 



The burying-ground is the only object of interest 

 here. The graves are covered with white shells, 

 and a white board, on which is inscribed the name, 

 &c. They appear to be mostly of Englishmen and 

 Americans, and it would seem that the mortality 

 had been great. But when one comes to consider 

 the large number of men-of-war which have been 

 lying in the bay, and the period of time elapsed, 

 the number of interments do not seem large. 



It was with much pleasure we greeted the arrival 

 of the Falmouth, Captain M'Keever, whose kindness 

 in supplying our wants, and forwarding our opera- 

 tions, we again experienced. The essential and 

 timely aid he gave me, in exchanging the launch 

 and first cutter of his ship, for materials to build 

 one, which I had brought from Valparaiso for that 

 purpose, prevented our detention here. 



The Falmouth brought from Valparaiso three 

 deserters from the squadron, who had been appre- 

 hended by Lieutenant Ci'aven, and from whom I 

 received a report, stating that two of them, Blake 

 and Lester, had been guilty not only of desertion, 

 but that their desertions had been attended with 

 very aggravated circumstances. Just about this 

 time the stores were delivering from the Relief. 

 Among them was a quantity of whiskey for the 

 other vessels. The marines who were placed on 

 duty over the spirit-room as guard, with six per- 

 sons employed in moving it, got drunk by stealing 

 the liquor, and her whole crew became riotous. 

 The delinquents were ordered on board my ship in 

 confinement. These were court-martial offences, 

 but the duties of the squadron would not permit 

 me to order a court for their trial, without great 

 loss of time and detriment to the service. To let 

 such offences pass with the ordinary punishment of 

 twelve lashes, would have been in the eyes of the 

 crew to have overlooked their crime altogether. I 

 was, therefore, compelled, in order to preserve 

 order and good discipline, to inflict what I deemed 

 a proper punishment, and ordered them each to 

 receive twenty-four lashes, excepting Blake and 

 Lester, who received thirty-six and forty-one. This 

 was awarding to each about one-tenth of what a 

 court-martial would have inflicted; yet it was such 

 an example as thoroughly convinced the men that 

 they could not offend with impunity. This was, I 

 am well satisfied, considered at the time as little or 

 no punishment for the crimes of which they had 

 been guilty; but I felt satisfied that the prompt and 

 decided manner in which it was administered, 

 would have the desired effect of preserving the 

 proper discipline, and preventing its recurrence. 

 In this I was not disappointed. I should not have 

 made this statement, had it not been that this was 

 the sole charge, out of eleven, spread out into 

 thirty-six specifications, on which a court of 

 thirteen members, after an investigation of three 



weeks, could find I had transgressed the laws of 

 the navy in the smallest degree. In justification 

 of my course on this occasion, I could not but 

 believe that the following clause of my instructions 

 from the Hon. J. K. Paulding, secretary of the navy, 

 ought to have sufficed : " In the prosecution of 

 these long and devious voyages, you will neces- 

 sarily be placed hi situations which cannot be 

 anticipated, and in which sometimes your own 

 judgment and discretion, and at others necessity, 

 must be your guide." Under this I acted. I am 

 fully satisfied that in this case circumstances did 

 occur, which in the language of my instructions 

 did make "necessity my guide," and I fully be- 

 lieve that in so doing I promoted the objects of the 

 expedition, the honour of the navy, and the glory 

 of the country. 



On the 30th of June, the squadron went over to 

 Callao. 



The bay of Callao is too well known to require 

 much to be said of it. The climate, combined with 

 the prevailing winds, make it a fine harbour. The 

 island of San Lorenzo protects it on the west from 

 the swell of the ocean, but its northern side is 

 entirely exposed ; there is no danger to be appre- 

 hended from that quarter. A few miles to the 

 north the influence of San Lorenzo ceases ; the 

 surf there breaks very heavily upon the beach, and 

 prevents any landing. 



The gradual manner in which the extensive 

 plain rises from Callao towards Lima, seems to 

 give a very erroneous idea of the situation of the 

 city. From the bay it is seen quite distinctly, about 

 six miles distant, and does not appear to be ele- 

 vated ; yet I measured the height of Mr. Bartlett's 

 house above the level of the sea by sympiesometer, 

 and found it four hundred and twenty feet. The 

 rise would be scarcely perceptible to a stranger 

 passing over the road, or one who had not a prac- 

 tised eye. 



Since my visit to Callao in 1821, it had much 

 altered, and for the better, notwithstanding the 

 vicissitudes it has gone through since that time. A 

 fine mole has been erected, surrounded by an iron 

 railing. On it is a guard-house, with soldiers 

 lounging about, and some two or three on guard. 



The mole affords every convenience for lauding 

 from small vessels and boats. The streets of Callao 

 have been made much wider, and the town has a 

 more decent appearance. Water is conducted from 

 the canal to the mole, and a railway takes the goods 

 to the fortress, which is now converted into a depot. 

 This place, the sea-port of Lima, must be one of the 

 great resorts of shipping, not only for its safety, but 

 for the convenience of providing supplies. The best 

 idea of its trade will be formed from the number of 

 vessels that frequent it. I have understood that 

 there is generally about the same number as we 

 found in port, namely, forty-two, nine of which 

 were ships of war : five American, two French, 

 one Chilian, and thirty-five Peruvian merchantmen, 

 large and small. 



The castle of Callao has become celebrated in 

 history, and has long been the key of Peru. 

 Whichever party had it in possession, were consi- 

 dered as the possessors of the country. It is now 

 converted to a better use, viz. that of a custom- 

 house, and is nearly dismantled. Only five of its 

 guns remain, out of one hundred and forty-five, 

 which it is said to have mounted. During our visit 



