General aspect of Tahiti. 



TAHITI. 



Arrival and reception. 



not only ameliorating the condition of the natives, 

 but protecting the unfortunate mariner who may 

 be wrecked within this dangerous archipelago. 



From what has been said of the Paumotu Group, 

 it is evident it can afford but few advantages for 

 commercial enterprise ; the only article which of 

 late years has been sought for among the islands, 

 is the pearl oyster-shell, of which considerable 



quantities have been obtained. The vessels en- 

 gaged in the fishery belong to foreigners, who 

 reside at Tahiti. The mode of taking the oysters 

 is by natives, who are employed as divers, for a 

 very small compensation. It is much to be re- 

 gretted, that the traders should have recourse to 

 the demoralizing effects of spirits, in stimulating 

 their exertions. 



CHAPTER XL 

 TAHITI. 



GENERAL ASPECT OF TAHITI ARRIVAL AND RECEPTION GENERAL FIGURE OF THE ISLAND ITS GEOLOGICAL 

 STRUCTURE AN OBSERVATORY ESTABLISHED SURVEY OF HARBOURS LONGITUDE OF POINT VENUS HEIGHT OF 

 MOUNTAINS THE GOVERNOR OF MATAVAI HIS HOSPITALITY CHURCH AT MATAVAI CHARACTER OF THE 

 NATIVES SCHOOL AT PAPIETI GENERAL DIFFUSION OF EDUCATION COMPLAINTS OF THE AMERICAN CONSUL 

 COUNCIL OF THE CHIEFS INFLUENCE OF THE MISSIONARIES CHANGE OP THE NATIONAL DRESS GENERAL 

 VIEW OF THE LABOURS- OF THE MISSIONARIES IMPROVEMENT IN THE NATIVE CHARACTER CAUSES OF WANT 

 OF INDUSTRY CONSTITUTION OF TAHITI COURTS OF JUSTICE QUEEN AND ROYAL FAMILY JUDGES OF THE 

 SUPREME COURT STATE OF PARTIES CASE OF THE CATHOLIC PRIESTS DWELLINGS OF THE NATIVES APPEAR- 

 ANCE OF THE FEMALES DRESS OF THE TWO SEXES TASTE OF THE NATIVES FOR FLOWERS COOKERY AND 

 MODE OF EATING MUSIC OF THE ISLANDERS EXPEDITION TO LAKE WAIHEREA FOREIGN TRADE OF TAHITI. 



THE beauty of the distant view of Tahiti has been 

 celebrated by all navigators, but I must confess 

 that it disappointed me. The entire outline of the 

 island was visible for too short a time, and at too 

 great distance to permit its boasted features to be 

 distinctly seen. Upon a second and nearer view, 

 its jagged peaks and rugged inaccessible mountains 

 were visible, but we looked in vain for the verdant 

 groves which are said by all writers to clothe it. 

 These indeed exist, but are confined to a narrow 

 belt of low land, lying between the mountains and 

 the shore, and being unseen at a distance, the 

 general aspect of the island is that of a land re- 

 cently thrown up by volcanic action. 



When, however, Tahiti is approached so near as 

 to make separate objects visible, the contrast be- 

 tween it and the barren coast of Peru becomes 

 striking. Even upon the steep surface of its cliffs, 

 vegetation abounds; the belt of low land is covered 

 with the tropical trees peculiar to Polynesia; while 

 the high peaks and wall-faced mountains in the 

 rear are covered with vines and creeping plants. 

 This verdure is seen to rise from a quiet girdle of 

 water, which is again surrounded by a line of 

 breakers, dashing in snow-white foam on the en- 

 circling reefs of coral. Such objects are sufficient 

 to form a beautiful landscape, and my disappoint- 

 ment probably arose in part from finding every 

 thing more diminutive than I had been led to 

 imagine from the highly-wrought descriptions I 

 had been perusing only a few days before. 



We were surrounded, even before we anchored, 

 by canoes of all shapes and sizes, whose crews 

 made a prodigious clamour. I at once interdicted 

 any one who was not a chief from coming on 

 board; but upon this being announced, every one 

 claimed to be a chief of some description or other. 

 Only the great chiefs, therefore, were admitted. 

 These came off in whale-boats, which are now 

 superseding the canoe, and brought with tlrem 

 trifling presents of fruit. It was soon found that 



their errand was not one of mere ceremony, but 

 was intended to solicit the washing of our dirty 

 linen, a business which is among the prerogatives 

 of the queen and chiefs. I was informed that the 

 queen, being enceinte, was residing on the opposite 

 side of the island, which would prevent her from 

 paying us a visit. I was, therefore, at liberty to 

 choose a less distinguished laundress, and spared 

 the pain of resisting her royal solicitations for soap, 

 an article much needed and in great request at 

 Tahiti. 



I was glad when the night closed in, to be rid of 

 our numerous visitors. The pilot, who goes by the 

 name of "English Jim," was equally so, for he 

 chose to be considered as the only privileged per- 

 son, and, besides, was looking somewhat to his own 

 profit in the line of clothes-washing, a business 

 which the presence of the chiefs threatened to 

 interfere with. Jim is quite a respectable-looking 

 man, dresses in the European fashion, and speaks 

 English, which he has acquired on board of whale- 

 ships, tolerably well. Although a good pilot, so 

 far as a knowledge of the shoals go, he does not 

 understand what to do with a vessel in case of 

 difficulty. He told me that he had been looking 

 out for vessels for some days, for it had thun- 

 dered. 



The two peninsulas, if they may be so termed, 

 of which the island of Tahiti is made up, are of 

 very different characters. The smaller one, called 

 Tairaboo, and usually spoken of as " the small 

 island," is said to be the most fertile : it possesses 

 some harbours, but they are little better known 

 than they were half a century ago. Both penin- 

 sulas possess twenty-four harbours, including the 

 good and bad. Tahiti Proper contains the best, 

 and therefore engrosses all the commerce. It has 

 in consequence been for many years the seat of 

 government. 



The whole island is of volcanic formation, but 

 there is no longer any active igneous action, nor is 



