Thu Vinceunes proceeds to Papieti. 

 Interview with the chiefs. 



mAiTTrni *A.Trk T.TSTi7rk Presents made them. General Freyre. 

 TAHITI AND LIMEO. Hitoti, a native chief. 



and to follow as soon as they had done so. The 

 tender required some repairs, which could be done 

 with more safety at Papieti. Both vessels joined 

 us in that harbour on the 24th. , 



In proceeding to Papieti, we left Matavai Bay 

 in the morning, and within a few hours had an- 

 chored in the harbour of the former place. No 

 soundings are to be had beyond the line of reefs, 

 and consequently there is no anchorage ; the outer 

 wall of the reef surrounding the island is in fact 

 perpendicular, with the exception of some project- 

 ing patches in Matavai Bay, and to the eastward of 

 Point Venus. On the latter the French frigate 

 Artemise struck, in 1836. 



At the season of the year when we made this 

 short 'passage, there is some danger to be appre- 

 hended in entering the harbour of Papieti, and 

 much caution is therefore necessary. The trades 

 at this season are irregular, and the winds which 

 prevail are light ; they also are most apt to fail at 

 the critical moment when the vessel is at the 

 entrance of the narrow passage through the reefs, 

 in which case the current, which rushes strongly 

 out and sometimes across the passage, may cause 

 the vessel to drift upon the western reef. The 

 proper mode of guarding against this, is to keep 

 the vessel as close as possible to the eastern 

 reef. 



The purpose of my visit to Papieti had originally 

 been to go through the ceremony of receiving the 

 great chiefs on board, when, according to custom, 

 presents are made them; but before this was done, 

 I determined that the -business, which I had laid be- 

 fore the council, as stated in the preceding chapter, 

 should be adjusted. This was done satisfactorily 

 on the 22ud, when they assented to all that had 

 been asked of them. I am convinced that their 

 conduct in this matter was dictated throughout by 

 a sense of what is right, and am satisfied that if 

 grievances do exist, it is only necessary to state 

 them, when, if redress is within their power, it will 

 be granted. 



Agreeably to my invitation, Uata, who appeared 

 as the representative of the queen, the two prin- 

 cesses, Ninito and Taii, and all the head chiefs, 

 visited the ship, accompanied by the foreign con- 

 suls. The ship was dressed for the occasion with 

 flags, and they were received with every mark of 

 respect. Luncheon was prepared for them ; and 

 when they were all seated at it, it struck me that I 

 had never seen such a collection of corpulent per- 

 sons. Previous to eating, one of the oldest chiefs 

 said grace. Their appetites were good ; none of 

 the food appeared to come amiss. They seemed 

 heartily to enjoy themselves, and conducted them- 

 selves with a propriety that surprised us all. They 

 were cautious in partaking of the wine which was 

 set before them, and seemed evidently upon their 

 good behaviour. This was the case with the high 

 chiefs, who, to the number of about fifteen, had 

 been invited ; but, besides these, about an equal 

 number of others contrived to get on board with- 

 out invitation ; the latter thrust themselves for- 

 ward with eagerness to occupy places at the table, 

 but were compelled to give place to those of higher 

 rank. A second table was, however, prepared for 

 them, at which they took their seats, and did ample 

 justice to what was set before them. 



The variety of costume which was exhibited at 

 this banquet was amusing. The princesses were 



dressed in white frocks, shoes, and stockings, and 

 chip bonnets, but looked awkwardly in them, and 

 appeared more like boys in girls' clothes thnn 

 women. Some of the men wore full suits, coats, 

 vests, and pantaloons, of a variety of colours ; 

 others had sailors' round jackets; others again had 

 only shirts and pantaloons, all too small, both in 

 breadth and length. Some had black felt hats, of 

 all possible fashions, and others wore them of straw; 

 some had shoes on their feet, others had none. 



Paofai's son attracted attention by his ridiculous 

 appearance : he wore a red check shirt, light white 

 pantaloons, that reached only half way down his 

 legs, coai-se shoes without stockings, and a short- 

 skirted drummer's coat of blue, plentifully faced 

 with scarlet. The latter was so small for him, that 

 no force would make it button upon him. To finish 

 all, lie had a high-crowned conical felt hat stuck 

 upon the top of his head. 



After luncheon, they repaired to the deck, to 

 receive the presents prepared for them. These I 

 had been advised, in order to avoid unpleasant 

 scenes, to pack in bundles, assorted to the rank of 

 the'parties. In spite of this precaution, much con- 

 sultation took place among them, and a desire to 

 exchange with one another was manifested. This 

 was particularly the case with our old acquaintance 

 Taua, and his friend Otore, the ex-minister and 

 former favourite of the queen. The presents for 

 the queen and royal family were committed to the 

 charge of Uata, who, as has been stated, appeared 

 as the representative of her majesty. 



Otore, who has been just named, is only a petty 

 chief, but had been the queen's favourite and min- 

 ister, until he was dismissed in consequence of his 

 frequent indulgence in intoxication. He is considered 

 as the greatest orator on the island. He and Taua 

 are boon companions, and were continually on board 

 the vessels, where they so timed their visits that the 

 hour of breakfast was sure to find them either 

 actually seated at table or awaiting an invitation. 

 Although at first welcome, the habitual intrusion 

 of these and others upon the messes, finally became 

 an annoyance, and on board the Peacock they had 

 at last recourse to " clearing the ship of strangers" 

 during meals. Taua did not mind this ; and when 

 we left Matavai, he was so kind as to remove to 

 Papieti, in order to be near his friends. 



Among other visitors on this occasion, I had the 

 honour of the company of General Freyre, formerly 

 president of Chili, who has chosen Tahiti as his 

 rasidence. It gave me great pleasure to become 

 acquainted with him, particularly as I had it in 

 my power to give him recent news from his own 

 country and Peru, which he was desirous of hear- 

 ing/ He spoke much of the deprivation he suf- 

 fered by a separation from his family, and from 

 the want of society, but uttered not a word of com- 

 plaint against his enemies. 



He lives in a small cottage on the bank of the 

 harbour of Papieti, where he is highly respected ; 

 his manner and whole deportment are gentlemanly; 

 he is tall and robust, with a florid complexion, and 

 appears about fifty-five years of age. Although his 

 political course may have been much condemned, 

 1 can bear testimony to the high estimation in 

 which his private character is held in his native 

 country. 



On arriving at Tahiti, or indeed at any of the 

 islands, respect is naturally due to the chiefs ; this, 



