Inlet of Asau. Excursion into the 

 interior. 



SAMOAN GROUP. 



Native fishing. 



101 



iron-bound, with a heavy surf breaking on it. To- 

 wards the western end of the island, the rocks 

 around the points were worn into cavities, and the 

 sea rolling into them produced innumerable spouts 

 of water. 



Near the north-western point of Savaii is the 

 large and beautiful village of Felialupo, with a 

 snug little cove for boats. This place is under the 

 charge of a Tonga missionary. The natives were 

 friendly, and disposed to exchange their poultry 

 and fruit, for tools, cloth, &c. 



The next inlet on the north side, was that of 

 Asau. This was supposed to be the only place 

 where there was any probability of finding a har- 

 bour. But the hope of such discovery was frus- 

 trated, for there is only a small and shallow en- 

 trance through the reef, and within the reef the 

 shore forms an extensive flat. 



Proceeding on the survey, the brig arrived off 

 the north point of the island, and reached the bay 

 of Mataatua, which was examined, and found to 

 afford a good anchorage. The brig was anchored 

 here, and the harbour surveyed. This is the only 

 harbour in the island where a vessel can anchor 

 with safety, and here supplies of hogs, poultry, and 

 vegetables, may be had in abundance ; wood and 

 water are also easily obtained, the latter from 

 copious springs near the beach. 



A great difference in form, physiognomy, and 

 manners, from those of the adjacent villages, was 

 observed here, as well as a change in the character 

 of many articles of manufacture. The war-clubs 

 and spears were of uncommon form, and neatly 

 made. 



This bay is surrounded by a white coral beach. 

 The natives appeared harmless, but manifested 

 great curiosity. The women are more gracefully 

 formed than at the other islands. 



The native missionaries appeared to exercise 

 much influence over them, having put a stop to 

 many of their former evil practices. 



On the 24th, the brig again arrived off Sapapale, 

 after an absence of nine days. Here they were 

 joined by Dr. Pickering, and Lieutenant Maury, 

 and found the old chief Malietoa and his son Mole, 

 who were extremely courteous. On the former 

 being presented with some articles, he remarked, 

 that " our property was very good, but our good- 

 will better." 



Dr. Pickering engaged natives to accompany 

 him into the interior, and to visit the Mu or burnt 

 district. Preparations for the journey were made in 

 advance, and among other things, it was stipulated 

 that there should be only two meals a day, one 

 early in the morning, and another in the evening. 

 The first day, however, was to form an exception. 



Mr. Hardie accompanied the party for a few 

 miles, and they soon after their departure met a 

 native who was styled " the Lord of the Forest." 

 The party were desirous that this man should ac- 

 company them, for his appearance promised more 

 than that of the others, and it seemed it was neces- 

 sary to obtain his permission before they could 

 enter the forest. In times of scarcity, his domains 

 become of great value, in consequence of the quan- 

 tity of wild yams they yield. This person agreed to 

 accompany them, and they proceeded along a good 

 path through cultivated grounds of taro, dracaena, 

 &c. Mr. Hardie, before leaving the party, endea- 

 voured to make the natives understand the nature 



of Dr. Pickering's errand ; the latter was unable 

 to make himself understood by them. They had 

 not proceeded far before they came to an unin- 

 habited house, where the natives stopped for the 

 purpose of preparing dinner, the cooking of which 

 occupied three hours! The day was in consequence 

 well advanced before they again started, and at 

 about 4 p. M. they reached an open shed, about two 

 miles from the last stopping-place^where the na- 

 tives concluded to halt for the night. The occu- 

 pants, who consisted of two elderly women and a 

 young man, were dispossessed, and the shed was 

 enclosed by hanging up leaves of the heliconia, 

 which resemble those of the banana. They then 

 prepared some excellent cocoa-nut pudding, and 

 heated some cocoa-nut milk in the shells. This 

 beverage is usually taken by them every morning 

 and evening ; the natives all saying grace before 

 their meal, and prayers before they went to rest. 

 It was late the next morning before Dr. Pickering 

 could get the party in motion, and pursuing their 

 route, they soon overtook the Lord of the Forest, 

 who had preceded them, and was employed in 

 cutting a path through the woods, although that 

 already made might have been easily passed 

 through. No inducement could make them change 

 their purpose, and they continued to work at their 

 turnpike, lopping off large branches, beating down 

 ferns, &c. After some time, they reached a rising 

 ground, which they found to be on one side of a 

 crater, about a thousand feet above the sea, and 

 seven miles inland. 



Dr. Pickering now concluded that it was a hope- 

 less task to attempt to penetrate into the interior 

 with such guides, and determined to return, which 

 he accordingly did. He found the rest of his party 

 a mile in advance of their previous encampment, 

 where they had built for themselves a fine house, 

 and each man had collected two large baskets of 

 yams for provisions. This was their stopping- 

 place for the night, and among other cares for the 

 doctor's comfort, they constructed for him a 

 native pillow, formed of a piece of bamboo, with 

 legs lashed to it about three inches high. 



The natives were in high spirits during the 

 evening, talking and laughing immoderately. They 

 succeeded in getting off' by nine o'clock the next 

 day, and reached the coast about noon. 



During the stay of Dr. Pickering and Lieutenant 

 Maury on this island, they were objects of great 

 curiosity ; and whenever they walked out they were 

 followed, not only by boys, but grown men, who 

 did not, however, offer to molest them in any way. 

 When they passed through the villages, all the 

 inhabitants, not excepting the scholars from the 

 schools, came out to look at them. The latter, 

 however, did not abandon their books, but retained 

 them in their hands; for all, whether young, mid-* 

 die-aged, or old, are anxious to learn, and their 

 perseverance, as in other parts of the group, is 

 astonishing. 



Dr. Pickering here witnessed the taking of fish 

 in a different mode from that practised on the other 

 islands. Application was made to the chief, and 

 through his influence a meeting of the head men 

 of the town was called, and a fishing expedition 

 agreed upon. The net, if it could be so called, was 

 prepared, and in the course of two days every thing 

 was ready. The net was a kind of chevaux-de-frise, 

 made of the leaves of the cocoa-nut tree, split and 



