Island of Totoia. 



OVOLAU. 



David Whippy, a white resident. 

 Tui Levuka. 



193 



rounded knoll. The wind was blowing fresh from 

 the south-east, and after dark I determined to 

 heave-to to await daylight, off the southern and 

 eastern islands of the Feejee Group; this was done 

 in order to set the Porpoise at her work. Since 

 leaving Tonga, we have found ulcers prevalent 

 among our men, from the bites they had received; 

 they were inflammatory and difficult to cure, pre- 

 vailing among those apparently most healthy. Just 

 at dawn we made an island, and at the same time a 

 large sandbank, about half a mile from us; had 

 darkness continued half an hour longer, we should 

 have probably been wrecked upon the latter, as I 

 did not believe myself within five miles of it. Our 

 unexpected vicinity to it was caused by a strong 

 current to the northward. 



At 6 A.M. we began our observations, and at eight 

 I made signal to the Porpoise to part company. 



We continued our course with the Peacock and 

 Flying-Fish in company. I had compiled a chart 

 of the comparatively unknown sea we were about to 

 traverse; but the weather was threatening, and 

 from the specimen we had had in the morning of 

 its dangers, I thought it would be prudent to haul 

 off, which I did, at 2 P.M. At five, land was re- 

 ported ahead, and on the lee bow; it proved to be 

 the island of Totoia, which I now found was thirty 

 miles out of the position assigned it by former navi- 

 gators. I at once came to the determination of 

 running into the group, feeling assured we should 

 thus save much time, and probably find smoother 

 water; the dangers we had to encounter in either 

 way were about equal. It was now blowing a fresh 

 gale, which obliged us to take three reefs in the top- 

 sails; it is by no means a pleasant business to be 

 running over unknown ground, in a dark night, 

 before a brisk gale, at the rate of seven or eight 

 miles an hour. The sea was unusually phospho- 

 rescent, and the night was disagreeable with rain 

 and mists. The Peacock and Flying-Fish followed 

 us. The morning proved fine, and at daylight we 

 were within a short distance of the Horse-shoe 

 Reef, unknown to any of us but Tom, who thought 

 we must be at least twenty miles from it. We 

 found ourselves in the midst of a number of beauti- 

 ful islands, viz.* Goro, Vanua-levu, and Somu-somu 

 on our right; Nairai, Ambatiki, and Matuku, on 

 the left; whilst Ovolau, Wakaia, and Mokungai, 

 were in front; they were all girt by white encircling 

 reefs. So beautiful was their aspect, that I could 

 scarcely bring my mind to the realizing sense of the 

 well-known fact, that they were the abode of a 

 savage, ferocious, and treacherous race of canni- 

 bals. 



Each island had its own peculiar beauty, but the 

 eye as well as mind felt more satisfaction in resting 

 upon Ovolau, which as we approached, had more 

 of the appearance of civilization about it than the 

 others; it is also the highest, most broken, and most 

 picturesque. In consequence of light winds, we 

 did not succeed in reaching the harbour of Levuka 

 that evening, and passed the night under way, be- 

 tween Ovolau and Wakaia. At daylight on the 8th 

 of May, we were off the port, and made all sail for 

 it. At nine o'clock, being off the entrance, I took 

 the precaution, as the breeze was light, to hoist the 



In the orthography of the names of the Feejee Group, 

 I have followed the pronunciation, and not the true con- 

 struction of the language. 



boats out (having to pass through a passage only 

 eight hundred feet in width), and sent them ahead 

 to tow. At first it is not a little alarming to approach 

 these entrances with a light wind, and often with a 

 strong current setting in or out; the ship rolling 

 and tossing with the swell as she nears the reefs, 

 the deep-blue water of the ocean curling into 

 white foam on them, with no bottom until the en- 

 trance is gamed, when a beautiful and tranquil 

 basin opens to the view. 



The remarkable peculiarity of these coral har- 

 bours, if so I may call them, is that in gaining 

 them, it is but an instant from the time the sea 

 is left until security is found equal to that of au 

 artificial dock ; this is particularly the case with 

 the harbour of Levuka. The shore was lined with 

 natives, watching our progress with their usual 

 curiosity; and it was amusing to hear the shouts of 

 applause that emanated from the crowds on shore, 

 when they witnessed the men, dressed all in white, 

 running up the rigging to furl the sails, 



In passing to the anchorage, we saw a tiny boat, 

 in which was David Whippy, one of the principal 

 white residents here, with one of his naked children. 

 This man ran away from a ship, commanded by 

 his brother, that was trading in this group, in 

 consequence of the ill-treatment he received on 

 board ; he now has been eighteen years on this 

 island, and is the principal man among the whites. 

 He is considered a royal messenger, or Maticum 

 Ambau, and is much looked up to by the chiefs. 

 He speaks their language well ; is a prudent trust- 

 worthy person, and understands the character of 

 the natives perfectly : his worth and excellent 

 character I had long heard of *. He immediately 

 came on board to welcome us, and after we had 

 anchored near the town, he brought off Tui Levuka, 

 the chief of the Levuka town. This dignitary was 

 a stout, well-made man, strong and athletic, en- 

 tirely naked, with the exception of a scanty maro, 

 with long ends of white tapa hanging down before 

 and behind, and a turban of white fleecy tapa, not 

 unlike tissue-paper, around his head, of enormous 

 size. These turbans designate the chiefs, and 

 frequently have a small wreath of flowers over 

 them. His face was a shining black, having been 

 painted for the occasion; his countenance had a 

 good expression, and he seemed, after a few 

 moments, to be quite at his ease. As is customary, 

 I at once gave him a present of two whale's teeth 

 and two fathoms of red cotton cloth, with which he 

 was well satisfied, clapping his hands 'several times, 

 which is their mode of expressing thanks. His 

 hair was crisped, with a small whalebone stick or 

 needle, twelve or fourteen inches in length, stuck 

 into it on one side ; he did not leave me long in 

 doubt as to the use to which the latter is put, for 

 it was continually in requisition to scratch his 

 head, the vermin being not a little troublesome. 

 He was very desirous of doing every thing for me, 

 and said that any ground I wished to occupy, was 

 at the service of the countrymen of his friend 

 Whippy. 



Ovolau is the principal residence of the white 

 men in the group, to whose general deportment 

 and good conduct I must bear testimony; I met 

 with none better disposed throughout the voyage 



He has, since our return, been appointed vice-consul 

 for the Feejee Group. 



I 



