BeUlnghamJ^-Polnt Roberts.- 



p EACOCK 



Boat expedition fitted out. 

 Progress of the surveys. 



287 



the beach, where they seemed to enjoy them- 

 selves. 



Lieutenant- Commandant Ringgold, being in- 

 formed by the Indians that a passage existed to 

 the north into Bellingham Bay, boats were sent to 

 explore it. The information proved to be correct; 

 but the water was so shoal, that it is, at lowest 

 point, almost a mud-flat; and the channel, besides, 

 is tortuous. This duty being completed, the Por- 

 poise, on the 26th, was moved through the pas- 

 sage, and anchored under one of the small isles at 

 the entrance. 



The Indians from various parts of Admiralty 

 Inlet, were constantly around the brig, endeavour- 

 ing to derive some advantage in the way of trade. 

 They were found to occupy various points, each 

 tribe keeping distinct. Their names were, the 

 Scocomish, Suquamish, Clalams, and Sachets, who 

 live in harmony with each other, although they do 

 not scruple to call one another " peshac," or bad ; 

 but this epithet is invariably given to those of a 

 different tribe by all the Oregon Indians. The 

 term, however, is applied with greater force to the 

 more northern tribes, who frequently undertake 

 incursions on them, in strong marauding parties, 

 for the purpose of obtaining slaves : they are, in 

 consequence, held in great dread. During the stay 

 of the brig, an alarm occurred, which produced 

 much consternation among them. Many sought 

 shelter in the woods ; others went off to their 

 strongholds, and some women sought shelter along- 

 side the brig in their canoes. 



These Indians suffer little inconvenience in 

 their changes of residence ; for, having but f. w 

 chattels, they can remove at a few moments' 

 notice ; and after landing at an entirely strange 

 place, they are at home the moment their fires are 

 lighted. 



The 4th of July was spent near Point Roberts; 

 and on the 5th, the brig reached the mouth of 

 Eraser's river, which is about a mile wide, with a 

 serpentine channel, leading through an extensive 

 mud-flat. Fort Langley, of the Hudson Bay Com- 

 pany, is situated about twenty miles from the mouth. 

 The country immediately around is low, and has a 

 rich alluvial soil. It is inhabited by the Nanitch 

 tribe, who accompanied the brig thither from Birch 

 Bay. The mouth of Eraser's river was found to be 

 six miles north of latitude 49 N. 



Lieutenant-Commandant Ringgold, on the 20th, 

 received further instructions from me to push the 

 survey to the north; but being short of bread, he 

 had sent Passed-Midshipman Sandford to obtain a 

 supply, which was at once despatched in the launch, 

 although I expected to meet the brig at New Dun- 

 geness in a few days. 



On the 20th, as before mentioned, the brig joined 

 the Vincennes at New Dungeness. 



I had been in hopes that, after the severe tour of 

 surveying duty for the last three months, I should 

 be able to give the crews some relaxation; but I 

 found this impossible, for the duties were necessa- 

 rily much increased by the absence of the Peacock 

 and Flying-Fish, and the necessity of finishing as 

 much of the northern survey as possible, as well as 

 obtaining accurate information in relation to the 

 positions, &c. I deemed it of too much importance 

 to allow a day to go by unimproved. Orders were 

 therefore given to the boats under Lieutenant Case 

 to proceed to Port Townsend, to fill up the surveys 



and connect them with Hood's Canal and those of 

 Whidby's Island. 



Another division of boats, with those of the Por- 

 poise, were employed in surveying New Dungeness 

 Bay, and connecting it with Protection Island, 

 while I was occupied in getting a series of observa- 

 tions for latitude and longitude, dip and intensity, 

 at the low sand point which forms the bay. Orders 

 were also prepared for the Porpoise to proceed to 

 Port Townsend ; thence to Eraser's river, visiting 

 Fort Langley: and then through Johnson's Straits, 

 and round the north end of Vancouver's Island, to 

 Nootka Sound. 



A large boat expedition was also fitted out, of 

 which I took charge in person, to proceed across 

 the Straits of De Fuca, to complete the survey of 

 the Canal de Arro, with the adjacent bays and har- 

 bours, and thence to the mouth of Eraser's river, 

 where I anticipated falling in with the Porpoise 

 again. 



On the morning of the 25th, the brig parted 

 company, and in the afternoon I set out, with seven 

 boats, to cross the strait. The wind had been blow- 

 ing strong, but I did not anticipate much sea or 

 danger. It proved otherwise, however, for the tide 

 was found to be running strong ebb against the 

 wind, producing a very high sea, which made the 

 passage at times perilous. We, however, crossed 

 this distance of twenty miles without any other ac- 

 cident than the loss of a mast belonging to one of 

 the boats, and reached the opposite shoi'e in safety, 

 though completely wet from the quantity of water 

 we had shipped. The boats answered all purposes 

 uncommonly well; and many who had believed 

 them unsafe, were now satisfied that they were ad- 

 mirably adapted for all weathers. Large fires and 

 dry clothes soon restored the men to their wonted 

 good spirits. 



On the 26th, we began the survey of this laby- 

 rinth of islands, which was continued the next day, 

 27th, on the afternoon of which I was joined by 

 Passed-Midshipman May, with letters from the 

 ship and despatches from Nisqually, informing me 

 of the loss of the Peacock, on the bar of the Co- 

 lumbia, but that all hands were saved. This news, 

 although bad, was a great relief to me; for I had 

 feared not only the loss of the vessels, but had 

 serious apprehensions for the lives of the persons 

 on board. A heavy load that had long hung, over 

 my mind was removed. 



All my plans for the employment of the squadron 

 were now at once to be changed; for it became 

 necessary for me to proceed without delay to afford 

 relief to our shipwrecked companions. I therefore 

 immediately sent orders to the Porpoise, counter- 

 manding her previous instructions, and ordering 

 her to repair forthwith to join the Vincennes at 

 New Dungeness. On the 28th, the duties of our 

 surveys were again resumed, and a finish made of 

 those of the Canal de Arro. This was effected 

 through the strenuous exertions of both officers and 

 men, and the same night we reached the Vin- 

 cennes. 



Although we had completed all that was essen- 

 tial for the navigation of the Canal de Arro, I re- 

 gretted that I had been deprived of the opportunity 

 of examining the south-east end of Vancouver 

 Island, which I'have reason to believe offers many 

 fine harbours. Three days more would have enabled 

 me to accomplish this portion to my satisfaction. 



