288 



Neah Harbour. 

 Classet Indiana. 



DE FUCA'S STRAITS AND 



De Fuca's Pillar. 

 Cape Disappointment. 



On the 29th, the brig again joined us, and Mr. 

 T. W. Waldrou was at once sent with despatches 

 to Nisqually, to pass across the country to the 

 Cowlitz, and thence down the Columbia to Astoria. 

 Among the despatches was an order to all the ward- 

 room officers of the Peacock, to report to me in 

 writing the circumstances that led to the loss of 

 that ship *. 



On the 31st, towards noon, the wind and tide 

 permitting, we got under way, and stood down the 

 Straits of De Fuca; but owing to the light winds, 

 we made little progress. Of the northern side of 

 these straits it had been my intention to make a 

 very particular examination, after completing the 

 survey of the Canal de Arro. I have understood 

 that there is a fine harbour near the eastern end of 

 the island, where a post has been lately established 

 by the Hudson Bay Company; that of San Juan, 

 near the mouth of the straits, the Porpoise was or- 

 dered to survey on the 2nd of August, while the 

 Vincennes was engaged in the survey of Neah Har- 

 bour, lying on the south side of the straits, just 

 within Cape Flattery. Port San Juan was found 

 to afford little shelter, being exposed to the south- 

 west winds, and the heavy swell of the ocean ; and 

 is reported as being unsafe, except for temporary 

 anchorage. 



Neah Harbour is but a small indentation in the 

 coast, which is partly sheltered on the north-east by 

 Neah Island. It is the position where the Spaniards 

 attempted to establish themselves in 1572, and 

 which they called Port Nunez Gaona. The re- 

 mains of an old fort are still to be perceived, and 

 some bricks were found that were supposed to have 

 belonged to it. Water is to be obtained here in 

 some quantity, and a small vessel would have no 

 difficulty in getting enough. It offers a tolerably 

 safe anchorage, though somewhat exposed to the 

 north-west gales; yet by anchoring well in, which a 

 small vessel may do, protection even from these 

 gales might be had. 



The ship, on anchoring, was surrounded by many 

 canoes of the Classet Indians, who inhabit the 

 country around Cape Flattery. They were well 

 disposed to trade, and were greatly surprised that 

 so large a ship should want no furs, which were of 

 several kinds : the sea-otter was that most prized, 

 and held at very exorbitant prices, more than they 

 could be bought for in the United States. George, 

 the chief of the Tatouche tribe, as he terms him- 

 self, was on board all day. He speaks a few words 

 of English, and is a fine-looking man. It was diffi- 

 cult to make him or any of his people understand 

 the use of a man-of-war, the number of people on 

 board, and the care that was taken to keep them 

 from coming on board. He showed it by continually 

 asking, " What for so big ship ?" " What for so 

 many mans ?" all probably proceeding from his 

 disappointment in not being able to sell his skins. 



The Classet tribe of Indians is one of the most 

 numerous on the coast that I had an opportunity of 

 seeing, and seems the most intelligent. These In- 

 dians wore small pieces of an iridescent mussel- 

 shell, attached to the cartilage of their nose, which 

 was, in some, of the size of a ten cents piece, and 

 triangular in shape. It is generally kept in motion 



* These will be found published in Document No. 427, 

 House of Representatives, 28th Congress, 1st Session, dated 

 10th April, 1814. ., 



by their breathing. They had seldom any clothing 

 excepting a blanket; but a few who have contrived 

 to make friends with the visiters, have obtained 

 some old clothes; while others seem to be in the pay 

 of the Hudson Bay Company. The principal arti- 

 cles of trade are tobacco, powder (" paulalee"), and 

 leaden balls. These are preferred to most other 

 merchandise, although more can be obtained for 

 spirits than for any other article. This shows very 

 conclusively, to my mind, the sort of trade that was 

 carried on when the Boston ships' entered into 

 rivalry with the North-west Company for the pur- 

 chase of furs. 



On the 3rd, we were engaged in the survey of the 

 harbour, besides obtaining fifteen hundred gallons 

 of water. Its position (the north point of Neah 

 Island) was found to be in latitude 48 24' 40" N., 

 longitude 124 36' 40" W.; variation 21 8' 14" 

 easterly. 



We had as many as forty canoes alongside on the 

 3rd, with various articles for sale, including fish, 

 venison, &c. Some of the canoes had as many as 

 twenty persons in them. They were generally a 

 stout, athletic race; and it was observed that the 

 women were much better looking than those of the 

 other tribes. Some of them, indeed, had quite fair 

 complexions and rosy cheeks. They are not as 

 much exposed to the weather as those we had pre- 

 viously seen, being provided with a conical hut, 

 made of grass, and plaited so tight as to be imper- 

 vious to water, which both protects them from the 

 rain and sun. 



It is said that this tribe can muster one thou- 

 sand warriors, and they have the reputation of 

 being treacherous and warlike. Many of them 

 were fantastically painted, that is, besmeared with 

 oil, soot, and red paint. Their dress consists of a 

 native blanket, made of dog's hair interspersed 

 with feathers: this is much more highly valued 

 than the bought ones, but is rarely to be obtained. 

 The clamour made by our numerous visiters along- 

 side was very great, and their offers of articles 

 were without much regard to the priority of 

 rank, station, or any thing else. 



At 2 P.M. we got under way, with the Porpoise 

 in company, and succeeded in making an offing 

 before the fog enveloped us. These fogs are one of 

 the greatest annoyances to vessels arriving on this 

 coast; for, in fine weather, they are experienced 

 almost daily, coming up with the sea-breeze, con- 

 tinuing throughout the night, and until the sun has 

 sufficient power the next day to dissipate them. 



In leaving De Fuca's Straits, I anxiously watched 

 for De Fuca's Pillar, and soon obtained a sight 

 of it. 



The morning of the 5th August the Porpoise 

 was discovered astern, which relieved me from 

 any apprehension of detention. 



The soundings were somewhat peculiar; for it 

 was found that in our progress down the coast, 

 they increased almost regularly until ninety fathoms 

 was reached; but, a short distance beyond that 

 depth, and at about fifteen miles from the coast, 

 the bank suddenly fell off", and no bottom was to be 

 obtained with a line of two hundred and two hun- 

 dred and fifty fathoms long. 



On the 6th, at daylight, Cape Disappointment 

 was in sight; and at ten o'clock we were near the 

 cape. The Flying-Fish joined us at noon; when 

 Captain Hudson came on board, and from him I 



